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Right Twin, The 

Great White Hope 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: R. Bechler ,D. Moir, S. Sangdahl, 1981
Page Views: 1,509
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 21, 2002
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rich bechler on the first lead of GREAT WHITE HOPE...

Description 

The Great White Hope can be found between the Birthday Crack (route 9) and the Right Twin (route 10). Climb up to the large horizontal crack using small ledges. Above the horizontal crack the climbing gets very thin. Use delicate moves on small face features to ascend to the top.


Protection 

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Photos of Great White Hope Slideshow Add Photo
Birthday Boulder (14) with Great White Hope (8) in the background
BETA PHOTO: Birthday Boulder (14) with Great White Hope (8) in...
The Right Twin (7) and Great White Hope (8) with Birthday Crack to the right
BETA PHOTO: The Right Twin (7) and Great White Hope (8) with B...
Dale Moir ,Great White Hope.
Dale Moir ,Great White Hope.
Comments on Great White Hope Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 20, 2013
By Anonymous
Mar 22, 2002

f.f.a. : rich bechler ,dale moir, steve sangdahl, 1981? i dont think it was named for the color of the lichen.

By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Mar 23, 2002

Thanks for the FA info, I'll update it. Do you know why it's called Great White Hope?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 6, 2002

I think Great White Hope may have been led by James Loveridge in the summer of 2000. This could have been the first lead??? Does anyone know if it has been led before this?

By Anonymous
May 11, 2002

the first lead of great white hope was by rich bechler , steve sangdahl and dale moir 1981

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 23, 2003

Oh, come on Steve. Don't get touchy. Besides, your gear is "off route"...ABQ

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
May 8, 2003

the gear is not mine, its Bechlers.

By rich bechler
Mar 17, 2005

gear within reach is gear placed as long as you do not step off route!

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 8, 2005

Dale Moir leading?

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Apr 10, 2009

What an amazing route. I saw this when I first started climbing 2 years ago. It was such a pleasing looking line. I wanted to get on it ever since. So glad I finally did.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 6, 2009

Fun route and tricky.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 9, 2009

Ya, all the hands are right there, but feet get really beta intensive.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Didn't really much like this route. I thought the feet were horrible and I kept slipping off on them... perhaps it was the humidity that prevented me from sending this route. Meh. And honestly... the upper section was not the crux for me. The lower was the crux and an awkward one at that.

By Michael Sullivan
From: Madison, WI
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

This thing is so good! The climb has (for someone with my proportions) the most beautifully flowing moves (especially the upper half) that I've experienced in the park. Flags (both traditional and behind the other leg), drop knee, step throughs... lots of fun movement. And it is quite sustained. Thought it was harder than WWH, Coup-de-etat, Vivisection, and Hammer Master.