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The Great White Book
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British R
Avg: 3.3 from 226
votes
Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome
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Aoxomoxoa S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Barely Anything T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boltway, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cross Reference T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Direct White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Far West - Right Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Far West Country T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Foolish Pleasures T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Gallipoli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Great White Book, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jabberwalky T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jonah T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Kamps-Couch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Miss Adventure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Potter in Wonderland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Prints of Pleasure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quiet Desperation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Step It Up and Go T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Terrapin TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Top Gun T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Turkey Trot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Water Streak #1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Way We Could Have Been, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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White Flake, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Hope Morehouse, Jim Baldwin, and Jeff Foott, 1962 |
| Page Views: | 24,159 total · 107/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Wilder on Jun 23, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
A long, awkward, wide crack can surprise many 5.6 leaders. Pro is sparse and hard to place, especially if you don't have some huge pieces (5-6 inches), resulting in long runouts. But it's a beautiful long line straight up almost to the top of the dome.
P1 and P2 are pretty straightforward 5.6 and easier climbing. P3 and P4 are the mental crux - try not to get sucked in too deep, keep your feet on the main wall and your back on the right wall. The angle is low, so if you keep upright, it's trivial, but it probably won't feel like it. Don't pass up a place to get in some pro these two pitches - you won't find many. P4 is also poorly protected face climbing, moving left until you hit slabs.
P1 and P2 are pretty straightforward 5.6 and easier climbing. P3 and P4 are the mental crux - try not to get sucked in too deep, keep your feet on the main wall and your back on the right wall. The angle is low, so if you keep upright, it's trivial, but it probably won't feel like it. Don't pass up a place to get in some pro these two pitches - you won't find many. P4 is also poorly protected face climbing, moving left until you hit slabs.
Photos
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