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The Edge
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Central Buttress Direct T 
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Fruition T,TR 
Great Wall (center - aka the Pumper), The S,TR 
Great Wall (center trad line) T,TR 
Nose That Roared, The T 
Rotwand, The T 
Shattered T 
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The Great Wall (center - aka the Pumper) 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: See Great Wall (center trad line) for history. Not sure who drilled the bolts after the early 1980s.
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Justin Compton on Jun 12, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Tracie's first smooth red Lockatong Formation argi...

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Description 

Slick, Slippery, Polished, Pumpy, Fun! Classic climbing on smooth red Lockatong Formation argillite interspersed with friable Brunswick Formation shale...

Location 

First Buttress, middle of the face.

Protection 

3 bolts, chain anchors.


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By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 12, 2014

Probably my favorite route at the Edge.

Tom Stryker with friends Moffat and Hamel first did this as a ground up trad lead - probably in the early 1980s. That surely would change the letter at the end of the grade! My memory's a little foggy about who bolted this one after these years, but I'm pretty sure they ran it by Tom before drilling.
By Tom Stryker
Aug 24, 2014

Nobody asked me about bolting it.
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 10, 2014

Oh, the ravages of age on my memory... looks like I need to dig up that thread from rockclimbing.com and see what was actually posted there about the retrobolting.

[edit: looks like I confused that with a conversation about a different crag.]
By Tom Stryker
Dec 16, 2014

No worries Justin. It was X-rated in the ground up trad version, not destined to be popular that way, and too good of a route not to be enjoyed by others. Would have been nice to be asked, but so be it.
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