Great satisfaction of the flash

climbing friend!

I have lovings most for only great satisfaction of the flash. I think flash is an improved way to viewing the climbing progress. I like to hear from others who like to make difficult enjoyable flash of hard route more than projecting, and if you have any tips on making flash.

i flashed my hardest route ever. a letter grade harder than any of my redpoints. the reason... beer. took the fear and hesitation right out of me.

Excellent! Maybe I have enjoyable beer before next difficult flash!

I find alcohol is also beneficial in soothing the nerves before flashing. I also try to be at least half erect as it helps my confidence.

i flashed my hard route once, now im not allowed within a 1000' of schools

khoa wrote:i flashed my hard route once, now im not allowed within a 1000' of schools

Don't you mean you're hard root?

Grade doesn't really mean anything.

Everyone is different so a 5.12a for one person could be a 5.10a for another or a 5.12d for another. I know V3 that I can't climb but in the same area have flashed half the V5 / V6. I also have a negative ape index with small hands so I was able to climb up a V6 barefoot on tiny crimps but couldn't make the long extended overhang reach on the V3 and hold the big pinch.

This is coming off exactly like a story out of the October Rock and Ice issue about Sven. Anyone else get that feeling? "I like to make the flash"

ViperScale wrote:Grade doesn't really mean anything. Everyone is different so a 5.12a for one person could be a 5.10a for another or a 5.12d for another. I know V3 that I can't climb but in the same area have flashed half the V5 / V6. I also have a negative ape index with small hands so I was able to climb up a V6 barefoot on tiny crimps but couldn't make the long extended overhang reach on the V3 and hold the big pinch.

Good thing you're the only one whop brought up the grade things then...
Nice spray.

Climbing friend!

So drinking of the beers, getting of the half-erection all good helpings for flash! Any other ideas for help make excellent difficult pumping flash of stout 5.13 route?

What if I cannot get the erection after drinking of the beers?

Boissal wrote: Good thing you're the only one whop brought up the grade things then... Nice spray.

Sorry maybe I was the only one who read the first post... or maybe some of us don't care about grades because they don't really mean much of anything.

I am perfectly happy flashing extremely easy routes all day... but i don't mind working on routes at my limit either. I know people who see a grade and will not even attempt it because they think it is to hard (even on TR), people need to go back to looking at a wall finding a pretty route and just going to climb it. Yes grades matter to some degree because you don't want to get way over your head but really ignore them for the most part and just climb.

Aleks, didn't you make flash of my significant other? Heard it was beastly.

Has the legendary Sven returned as Aleks?? Do you use 4-plan to climb sacred flash of Boulder 5.13s, yes?

CCChanceR wrote:Has the legendary Sven returned as Aleks?? Do you use 4-plan to climb sacred flash of Boulder 5.13s, yes?

We Americans should focus more on the making of flash no? I want to use 4-plan to make the 5.13b flash like my Norwegian friend. Aleks do you use the 4-plan?

ViperScale wrote:Grade doesn't really mean anything. Everyone is different so a 5.12a for one person could be a 5.10a for another or a 5.12d for another. I know V3 that I can't climb but in the same area have flashed half the V5 / V6. I also have a negative ape index with small hands so I was able to climb up a V6 barefoot on tiny crimps but couldn't make the long extended overhang reach on the V3 and hold the big pinch.

Very true, some routes are much harder for others. All routes are subjective. For example, I struggle hardcore on slabs but do rather well (in comparison) on overhung powerful routes.

And yes grades do not matter. If people are bragging about their grades yes it is annoying and spraying....however, mentioning grades in order to make a point and answer a question is not spraying.......***que classic mountain project pointless argument***

Yes, 4 plan I use all of de time, climbing friend!

It help me with achieving flash on many route. I will use 4 routes taken 4 times, at a certain grade for flashing. When you redpoint, you will be ready for excellent flash. I recommend you choose similar route for 4-plan as one you will make flash.

If the climbing rocks have holds of many square shape, do this. If the climbing rocks have steep endurance section, you must do this in 4-plan. If the climbing rocks have technical balancing move, you must do this to be better prepare for the most excellent flash.

Always, you must think on how you can make utilizations of the rests on the climbing rocks, and mental strength and technique as well, because your goal must be how will you become refreshed at the crux on your difficult, maybe pumping, maybe thinking flash? It is not so easy at all times. I think you must think on how Sven Lavransen must would climb this route and it will help you on flash to climb with improved movement for the climbing rocks.

I find that I cannot complete excellent 4-plan for excellent flash with the drinking of the beers or the havings of the erections, like one climbing friend suggest above. I recommend NO BEER, NO ERECTION, ONLY 4-PLAN for best climbing training most excellent flashings!

Aleks, can I use the 4-plan on top-rope to make excellent flashes before I'm ready to lead? Or do I need to follow a different plan? Thank you for your inspiring words, I hope to have great satisfaction of the flash following your advice.

Climbing friend,

I truly believing there is nothing better in this life than great satisfaction of the flash. It's the ultimate improved better satisfactory way measuring of progress on the climbing rocks, and it's one beautiful moment where everything truly comings together. The greatest satisfaction of the flash for me comes when you make very difficult and enjoyable flash, but your mental state is correct and you feeling strangely refreshed at crux and route that was so hard now seems not so difficult. This will be your goal in the practicings of the 4-plan.

It's true you possible to use toprope to practice for 4-plan. I feel you may achieving some slight progressions this way, but I believe you may then be mentally challenged on the climbing rocks for flash, since your toproping will not have the same mental stress as leading for the flash. I do not like to see those mentally challenged on the climbing rocks.

Aleks,

The flash is nothing compared to the great feeling of the onsight. For best results put a beer in your chalk bag and do not use 4-plan. Use my technique and plan-4 victory with my proven method.

Warm Regards,

Eli

Mr, Buzzell,

I am most happy to you that you may receive great satisfaction of the onsight! That is truly a wonderful moment. For me I like say flash because it sounds cooler than onsight, and I do no make a much difference in the mind between the two. Also, I notice that many american climbers of the climbing rocks seem to get the great satisfaction mostly from arguing in internet about true definition of what to make onsight vs. what to make flash.

Therefore, I prefer to just use this word flash for every climb I lead first try, whether I watch someone like Sven Lavransen climb it first becomings refreshed at crux or not. I typically would not make use of the rappel and preinspectings for my difficult flash, however if I feel route may be having of the dangerous falls for injury, or for highball boulder flash, then I may make use of the preinspectings on rappel. This for me I feel is more of a safety issue and I do no care so much about the differings of the terminological utilizations of the words for climbing rocks flash or onsight.

But if you feel the most satisfaction on the makings of the difficult but enjoyable onsight, then I feel much happiness in my heart for your actions on the climbing rocks.

I feel that keeping of the beers in your chalk bag may weigh you down a little bit and make your satisfaction of the onsight maybe not so great, as you would remove the beers and perhaps onsight a letter grade harder.

I do no recommend the drinking of the alcohols for 4-plan or training to flash 5.14, but if you must have warm feelings and making of the boldness for onsight from booze, then perhaps you should be better simply doing the slamming of the beers approximately 30 minutes before you climb, and if you please try to take the enjoyable urination before onsight in order to have the makings of the onsightings a little bit more lighter and more freer.