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Little Horse Mesa
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Type O T,S 
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Yo Mamma T 

Great Roof Right 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 290
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Oct 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Great Roof Right passes the big roof on the right ...

Description 

Near the left side of the cliff at Sugarite is a gigantic roof. The crack that passes the left side of the roof is the classic Great Roof Left. Less classic but still fun is the crack that passes the right side. Start up a huge flake that goes easy but unprotected (unless you have a #6 camalot or some big bros) to some dodgy-looking but solid blocks just below the roof. Get some good pro in at the edge of the roof and pull some strenuous jamming and laybacking up around the roof to easier and fun hand jamming to the top. Heavy amounts of lichen on the left side of the crack keep the foot placements interesting to the top.

It's a fun route but not very consistent. Easy climbing to the roof, a tough move around the roof and then easier climbing above. Still worth doing, though.

FA info would be greatly appreciated. Also, suggested rating info would be nice too. The 5.10a rating is just our guess since we haven't seen anything published about this route. The move around the roof is definitely more challenging than any single move on Great Roof Left but overall the route is much less sustained.

Location 

Near the far left side of the wall.

Protection 

BD cams... .5, .75, 2x #2, 2x #3 and some gear for the anchor (good anchor gear is a #4 and a #3.)


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By Minesh Bacrania
Oct 28, 2008

Definitely a one-move wonder....