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Fairview Dome
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Great Pumpkin 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Kamps, Bud Couch, 7-1969.
Page Views: 2,942
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 13, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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A super safe belay on "Great Pumpkin".
Photo by Bl...

Description 

This excellent route is to the right of "Roseanne". The climbing is mostly easy with some exciting run-outs and routefinding.
Climb easy face to a ledge (5.4).
Climb up past a short left facing corner, then past a bolt, then up and right to a belay (5.8).
Climb up to a 5.8 lieback, which leads to a belay.
A left facing corner leads to another ledge (5.7).
From the right end of the ledge, climb 5.8 to a left facing corner, which leads to a belay with two bolts.
A 5.8 pitch leads past two bolts to a belay from three bolts.
Another 5.8 pitch leads past one bolt to the walk off.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Great Pumpkin Slideshow Add Photo
pitch 2, I think
pitch 2, I think
"Great Pumpkin". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Great Pumpkin".
Photo by Blitzo.
Great Pumpkin, upper pitch
Great Pumpkin, upper pitch
pitch 1
pitch 1
Belay ,
Belay ,
Comments on Great Pumpkin Add Comment
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By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Aug 19, 2009

Link it up in 4 pitches w/ a 60m.

By trying hard
From: East side Sierra
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R

How this route is rated so high baffles me. Supertopo guidebook talks about climbing immaculate perfect granite and so on regarding Great Pumpkin. This route offers far from that, highlighting a massive hollow flake that should not be protected with pro due to the unpredictability that it would blow off the wall, changing rock quality top to bottom and and extreme run outs. I would gladly walk off fairview for any other climb.

By Timbo Stillinger
Jul 22, 2013

Can be climbed in 3 pitches with a 70m.

From bolted belay at the top of P1 you can rope stretch to the Bolted Belay at the top of the pitch that starts off the ledge with the tree. (link p2 & p3) Might need to use long slings for the bolt anchors to milk that extra foot of stretch out of the rope. Rope drag is not that bad, be sure to protect for the follower mantling onto the ledge. If they unclip from the tree rap before mantling and you have no pro until the bolt at the other end of the ledge, they face a nasty penji should they blow the mantle.

By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 9, 2013

This is a fantastic face climbing route. Technically easier than Crying Time Again but with more demanding runouts than that route.

Read no further if you don't want a little more beta!

This climb is a typical Bob Kamps route, a master piece of face climbing linking interesting features. Looking at the route it is a mystery how he picked out the line of the runout crux second pitch. There is no loose rock on this climb. I used those same expanding flakes for protection 10 years ago and they are probably the ones Kamps used +40 years ago.

The second pitch is runout on 5.8 positive holds face climbing and it is very continuous 5.7 up to that spot. This puts you a long ways out from a bomber bolt before the belay - don't fall or you will get bad slab rash! The climbing is awesome almost all small positive knobs. Some tiny cams go in uninspiring places.

The third and fourth combine easily and are magnificent, better protected climbing but your head will still be spinning from that second pitch. The giant ledge is a awesome spot to hang out and enjoy the view!

The runouts on the last 3 pitches are much less stressful and feature larger knobs. Link the last two pitches for the least stress. There is a 5.8 move between the last bolted belay and the bolt - imagine Bob and Bud up there looking for the next stance to drill from with the gear of the day!

By -robin-
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

What a spectacular route, every pitch offers a little spice and is consistently interesting. Easily one of my favorite routes at the grade! We did it in four pitches with a 70m.