This excellent route is to the right of "Roseanne". The climbing is mostly easy with some exciting run-outs and routefinding.
Climb easy face to a ledge (5.4).
Climb up past a short left facing corner, then past a bolt, then up and right to a belay (5.8).
Climb up to a 5.8 lieback, which leads to a belay.
A left facing corner leads to another ledge (5.7).
From the right end of the ledge, climb 5.8 to a left facing corner, which leads to a belay with two bolts.
A 5.8 pitch leads past two bolts to a belay from three bolts.
Another 5.8 pitch leads past one bolt to the walk off.
pitch 2, I think
Photo by Blitzo.
Great Pumpkin, upper pitch
From: Oakland, Ca
Aug 19, 2009
Link it up in 4 pitches w/ a 60m.
|By trying hard|
From: Sierra East Side
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
How this route is rated so high baffles me. Supertopo guidebook talks about climbing immaculate perfect granite and so on regarding Great Pumpkin. This route offers far from that, highlighting a massive hollow flake that should not be protected with pro due to the unpredictability that it would blow off the wall, changing rock quality top to bottom and and extreme run outs. I would gladly walk off fairview for any other climb.
|By Timbo Stillinger|
Jul 22, 2013
Can be climbed in 3 pitches with a 70m.
From bolted belay at the top of P1 you can rope stretch to the Bolted Belay at the top of the pitch that starts off the ledge with the tree. (link p2 & p3) Might need to use long slings for the bolt anchors to milk that extra foot of stretch out of the rope. Rope drag is not that bad, be sure to protect for the follower mantling onto the ledge. If they unclip from the tree rap before mantling and you have no pro until the bolt at the other end of the ledge, they face a nasty penji should they blow the mantle.
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What a spectacular route, every pitch offers a little spice and is consistently interesting. Easily one of my favorite routes at the grade! We did it in four pitches with a 70m.
|By Jeffrey Lieberman|
Jul 9, 2014
This route is a classic line by Mr. Kamps. It's runout...but if you climb well and have the head..go for it. Always fun.