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North Buttress
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Unknown farther left 
Unknown SA 

Great Northern 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 414
Submitted By: Pat Mac on May 2, 2012
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Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>


Tracks right of prominent prow.


First route left of Shell Shock.


bolts 16 or so.

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By RyanJames
May 3, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

This climb ascends one of the cleanest and tallest portions of the North Butt(ress). A cruxy start leads to a sea of crimpers and sidepulls. Enjoy the fingercrack at the top!

All in all, this route rocks!

By 1Eric Rhicard
May 3, 2012

Spent 30 minutes working the start of this climb and was never able to figure out a sequence to reach the first good hold. I have heard how good it is and would really like to figure out something.

By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
May 3, 2012

Yeah Eric. I had trouble at first with that bottom section.

By Red
From: Arizona
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

I had such an amazing time on this route Saturday! I left the ground right at sunset. Plucking and swatting stink bugs from holds while fighting the building pump and fatigue from the long day to make it to the anchors just before it was too dark to see the holds. Very rewarding ascent!

By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Two holds near the lower crux wiggle. I am uncertain as to whether this is a recent development. I used both for hands and possibly feet. Losing one or both of these holds might make the climb significantly more difficult.

Great route with variety: face, jugs, and fingers. Fantastic!

By Caitlin Mac
From: Tempe
Dec 4, 2012

@Eric, I am 5'4 and had trouble reaching the first hold too. I held on to some holds out left, got my feet high, then got a toe hook out right on a small crimper on the corner of the arete to get high enough to get to the first hold. To stay balanced, I reached my right hand way out and around the arete, and there is a small lip that gives just enough for you to stay on.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 1, 2013

Hey Caitlin, I appreciate the beta. Sounds like what I tried the last time. I finally got back on it this weekend and did it facing left. If I grab a crappy two tiered crimp on the right face with my right hand, throw my left toe on the point just below the left hand jug I could rock on to it and easily reach the hold. Getting to the jug at the start of the crux is pretty interesting if you are short. The rest of the route was amazing.

Stink bug poop must work as a glue as the holds no longer wiggle.