Redding Land Trust owns Great Ledge has a parking lot and trail to the Ledge located on Dayton Rd. Please do not park and bushwack from Newtown Turnpike (Rt. 53) as there is no established trail to this cliff and traveling on Centennial Watershed State Forest property requires you to stay on established trails and carry the following permit: www.ct.gov/dep/lib/dep/stateparks/maps/saugatuckreservoirtra>>>. RLT does not specifically have a policy on rock climbing at the ledge but should any issues arise they might very well close the property to climbing. If you intend on climbing at Great Ledge please consider a paying the $10 membership fee which can also be considered a tax donation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Great Ledge is a large Granitic Gneiss cliff, formed about 435-500 mya during the Ordovician period, and located on the Redding/Weston border. The Redding Land Trust owns both the top and bottom of the cliff. Their property covers almost the entire climbing area and extends about half way down to the stream from the base.
The cliff is nestled in this small drainage and remains shady most of the day. There are opportunities for top-roping and trad climbing. It should be noted that efforts to install anchors to minimize impacts of Top Ropers have been met with sledge hammers and the vandalism by a local dad and his son. These idiots don't think they just act and have left the cliff looking like shit where they have hammered over anchor bolts.
From Route 15/Merritt Parkway take the Westport/Weston exit and get on Weston Road going North towards the Weston Town Center. Continue North on Weston Road which becomes Newtown Turnpike. As you continue on Newtown Turnpike there will eventually be a reservoir on your right (East) - continue on this pleasant wooded road for a couple miles and look for Tudor Road on your Left. Take Tudor Road. Turn left onto Dayton Road.
Keep your eyes open for a parking area on the right side of the road with a sign that reads "The Nature Conservancy, Devil's Den Preserve, Redding Land Trust". Park here, cross the street and head back down the road to a driveway on your right. Look for white blazes on the left side of this driveway - this is the trail that leads to the Great Ledge.
This trail goes uphill for a little more then a mile (maybe further) to a junction with a sign that says "Great Ledge". Follow the sign for another 1/2 mile to the top of the ledge.
There is a vague climbers trail near a stone wall just before you get to the actual top of the ledge. Take this downhill looking to your right for the cliff.
Alternatively you can access the great ledge via Devil's Den. This route will be a longer approach. I have uploaded a copy of the Devil's Den trail map with the Great Ledge loop highlighted.
I have not personally GPSed the location of this crag - I just found the general area on the map so please don't use a GPS and rely on these coordinates to bring you to the crag!
Climb Center line below roof. Up 15 ft on jugs to a small roof, pull move over small roof then up and right along seam to roof. Traverse left 5 ft to seam in roof. Reach out to notch grab on, hold swing, then pull difficult move over lip to anchors....[more]Browse More Classics in CT
This little crag has a long history for locals in the area. It has been a great little spot for those of us that live in Redding, and is worth checking out. I know my father climbed here in the 60's, and there are a few fixed pins from that era, or possibly earlier. The nasty paint at the base showed up a few years ago and really bummed me out. If anyone knows how to clean something like that, I would love to get rid of it. There is little beta out there, because this is largely a top rope area and those that climb it aren't really concerned with beta. There are some fun little routes here. It offers great clean aid solo practice with a large and prominent roof. If you are into rope soloing, this is also a great spot. But please please please leave the rock as you found it! Graffiti morons are not the only ones beating on this poor little cliff. Over the years people have bolted, chopped, and used this rock as a pin practice area. Totally NOT OK. If you want to practice fixing iron, find a rock in your neighbors yard, not this one.
also, if you use your noggin, there is a quick and easy way to legally park and approach this cliff in about 5 minutes(not involving devils den).
So the permit for the Saugutuck Res area - the land you cross to access the cliff and owned by the Aquerion Water Company - is simply to have a copy of their map in your possesion. Print the below and take it with you and you have a permit!!! FYI - Aquerion Water Company specifically prohibits climbing on their land however the cliff is not on their property.
Well said, Will and Jack. The cliff has in the past month seen yet more [unnecessary] bolting and [unsightly] chopping, when all it really needs is cleaning. Thanks to those who have been working on removing the graffiti, and have left wire brushes and cleaning supplies hidden near the cliff for others to contribute to the effort to restore it to the condition that has made it an enjoyable, little travelled traditional and toprope climbing spot for fifty years. I pledge to do my part in ensuring that it remains one for as long as I live in this great climbing state.
i agree if these bolt choppers care so much about the clif why cant they help get rid of the spray paint. i think hammer over bolts look alot worse than proper tr anchors placed in a correct spot just saying, why does ct have to suck so much!??!!
Yeah its really great theres effort going into cleaning the paint and whatnot off. But the uh, chemical bottles used to clean should probably not be left there....the paint being there does less to the area than having a bunch of plastic bottles and chems stashed. Im going there to clean that crap up. Please pack out what your gonna pack in...Thanks, and this is a sweet rock! Who smashed up the bolts? crazzy!