Great Ledge 

This little crag has a long history for locals in the area. It has been a great little spot for those of us that live in Redding, and is worth checking out. I know my father climbed here in the 60's, and there are a few fixed pins from that era, or possibly earlier. The nasty paint at the base showed up a few years ago and really bummed me out. If anyone knows how to clean something like that, I would love to get rid of it.
There is little beta out there, because this is largely a top rope area and those that climb it aren't really concerned with beta. There are some fun little routes here. It offers great clean aid solo practice with a large and prominent roof. If you are into rope soloing, this is also a great spot. But please please please leave the rock as you found it! Graffiti morons are not the only ones beating on this poor little cliff. Over the years people have bolted, chopped, and used this rock as a pin practice area. Totally NOT OK. If you want to practice fixing iron, find a rock in your neighbors yard, not this one.

also, if you use your noggin, there is a quick and easy way to legally park and approach this cliff in about 5 minutes(not involving devils den).

We should tar and feather the @55holes who spray painted that cliff...

So the permit for the Saugutuck Res area - the land you cross to access the cliff and owned by the Aquerion Water Company - is simply to have a copy of their map in your possesion. Print the below and take it with you and you have a permit!!! FYI - Aquerion Water Company specifically prohibits climbing on their land however the cliff is not on their property.

www.ct.gov/dep/lib/dep/stateparks/maps/saugatuckreservoirtra>>>

Cliff GPS: 41.269569,-73.382644

Well said, Will and Jack. The cliff has in the past month seen yet more [unnecessary] bolting and [unsightly] chopping, when all it really needs is cleaning. Thanks to those who have been working on removing the graffiti, and have left wire brushes and cleaning supplies hidden near the cliff for others to contribute to the effort to restore it to the condition that has made it an enjoyable, little travelled traditional and toprope climbing spot for fifty years. I pledge to do my part in ensuring that it remains one for as long as I live in this great climbing state.

does anyone know if this place stays wet for awhile after a good rain?

i agree if these bolt choppers care so much about the clif why cant they help get rid of the spray paint. i think hammer over bolts look alot worse than proper tr
anchors placed in a correct spot just saying, why does ct have to suck so much!??!!

Yeah its really great theres effort going into cleaning the paint and whatnot off. But the uh, chemical bottles used to clean should probably not be left there....the paint being there does less to the area than having a bunch of plastic bottles and chems stashed. Im going there to clean that crap up. Please pack out what your gonna pack in...Thanks, and this is a sweet rock! Who smashed up the bolts? crazzy!