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Great Ledge

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Great Ledge Bouldering 
Main Face 

Great Ledge 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.26951, -73.38402 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,086
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Matt Swartz on Oct 17, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Looking at the Great Ledge from the climbers right...
Land Trust property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great Ledge is a large Granitic Gneiss cliff, formed about 435-500 mya during the Ordovician period, and located on the Redding/Weston border. The Redding Land Trust owns both the top and bottom of the cliff. Their property covers almost the entire climbing area and extends about half way down to the stream from the base.

The cliff is nestled in this small drainage and remains shady most of the day. There are opportunities for top-roping and trad climbing. It should be noted that efforts to install anchors to minimize impacts of Top Ropers have been met with sledge hammers and the vandalism by a local dad and his son. These idiots don't think they just act and have left the cliff looking like shit where they have hammered over anchor bolts.


Getting There 

From Route 15/Merritt Parkway take the Westport/Weston exit and get on Weston Road going North towards the Weston Town Center. Continue North on Weston Road which becomes Newtown Turnpike. As you continue on Newtown Turnpike there will eventually be a reservoir on your right (East) - continue on this pleasant wooded road for a couple miles and look for Tudor Road on your Left. Take Tudor Road. Turn left onto Dayton Road.

Keep your eyes open for a parking area on the right side of the road with a sign that reads "The Nature Conservancy, Devil's Den Preserve, Redding Land Trust". Park here, cross the street and head back down the road to a driveway on your right. Look for white blazes on the left side of this driveway - this is the trail that leads to the Great Ledge.

This trail goes uphill for a little more then a mile (maybe further) to a junction with a sign that says "Great Ledge". Follow the sign for another 1/2 mile to the top of the ledge.

There is a vague climbers trail near a stone wall just before you get to the actual top of the ledge. Take this downhill looking to your right for the cliff.

Alternatively you can access the great ledge via Devil's Den. This route will be a longer approach. I have uploaded a copy of the Devil's Den trail map with the Great Ledge loop highlighted.

I have not personally GPSed the location of this crag - I just found the general area on the map so please don't use a GPS and rely on these coordinates to bring you to the crag!


16 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Great Ledge:
5.6 (2)   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Face
Ground Effect   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Face
Late For Supper   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Face
Browse More Classics in Great Ledge

Featured Route For Great Ledge
The center of the overhung face.  Go straight up if its possible or use the arete part way up.

Overhung face V7 7A+  CT : Southwest : ... : Angled Boulder
SDS in the middle of the overhung face on thin holds and go straight up to the lip. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Photos of Great Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
Another shot of the Main Face - note the amaaaaazing art...
BETA PHOTO: Another shot of the Main Face - note the amaaaaazi...
The sign at the parking area.
BETA PHOTO: The sign at the parking area.
The big roof in the middle of the main face.
BETA PHOTO: The big roof in the middle of the main face.
The first major feature on the right side of the main face: a right-angling crack/weakness.
BETA PHOTO: The first major feature on the right side of the m...
This is the trail map for Devil's Den.  Notice the Great Ledge highlighted in the lower right-hand corner.
BETA PHOTO: This is the trail map for Devil's Den. Notice the...
Comments on Great Ledge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Will Maxwell
From: Connecticut
May 11, 2010

This little crag has a long history for locals in the area. It has been a great little spot for those of us that live in Redding, and is worth checking out. I know my father climbed here in the 60's, and there are a few fixed pins from that era, or possibly earlier. The nasty paint at the base showed up a few years ago and really bummed me out. If anyone knows how to clean something like that, I would love to get rid of it.
There is little beta out there, because this is largely a top rope area and those that climb it aren't really concerned with beta. There are some fun little routes here. It offers great clean aid solo practice with a large and prominent roof. If you are into rope soloing, this is also a great spot. But please please please leave the rock as you found it! Graffiti morons are not the only ones beating on this poor little cliff. Over the years people have bolted, chopped, and used this rock as a pin practice area. Totally NOT OK. If you want to practice fixing iron, find a rock in your neighbors yard, not this one.

also, if you use your noggin, there is a quick and easy way to legally park and approach this cliff in about 5 minutes(not involving devils den).

By jackkelly00
Feb 6, 2011

We should tar and feather the @55holes who spray painted that cliff...

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jun 14, 2011

So the permit for the Saugutuck Res area - the land you cross to access the cliff and owned by the Aquerion Water Company - is simply to have a copy of their map in your possesion. Print the below and take it with you and you have a permit!!! FYI - Aquerion Water Company specifically prohibits climbing on their land however the cliff is not on their property.

www.ct.gov/dep/lib/dep/stateparks/maps/saugatuckreservoirtra>>>

Cliff GPS: 41.269569,-73.382644

By Will Starks
Aug 1, 2011

Well said, Will and Jack. The cliff has in the past month seen yet more [unnecessary] bolting and [unsightly] chopping, when all it really needs is cleaning. Thanks to those who have been working on removing the graffiti, and have left wire brushes and cleaning supplies hidden near the cliff for others to contribute to the effort to restore it to the condition that has made it an enjoyable, little travelled traditional and toprope climbing spot for fifty years. I pledge to do my part in ensuring that it remains one for as long as I live in this great climbing state.

By chris bridge
Aug 18, 2011

does anyone know if this place stays wet for awhile after a good rain?

By chris bridge
Aug 20, 2011

i agree if these bolt choppers care so much about the clif why cant they help get rid of the spray paint. i think hammer over bolts look alot worse than proper tr
anchors placed in a correct spot just saying, why does ct have to suck so much!??!!

By erik kapec
From: prescott, az
Jun 24, 2012

Yeah its really great theres effort going into cleaning the paint and whatnot off. But the uh, chemical bottles used to clean should probably not be left there....the paint being there does less to the area than having a bunch of plastic bottles and chems stashed. Im going there to clean that crap up. Please pack out what your gonna pack in...Thanks, and this is a sweet rock! Who smashed up the bolts? crazzy!