BETA PHOTO: Looking at the Great Ledge from the climbers right...
The cliff is in a gorge that is shady a fair amount of the day (as far as I know). There is a fair amount of tree cover and a drainage at the bottom of the gorge area. The rock is grainy but solid feeling - gneiss? metamorphosed granite? I'm not a geologist but it's good from what I can tell. Clearly people boulder here and some people may do a few trad climbs but due to a bit of a hike to get to the face, the area is not crowded.
From Route 15/Merritt Parkway take the Westport/Weston exit and get on Weston Road going North towards the Weston Town Center. Continue North on Weston Road which becomes Newtown Turnpike. As you continue on Newtown Turnpike there will eventually be a reservoir on your right (East) - continue on this pleasant wooded road for a couple miles and look for Tudor Road on your Left. Take Tudor Road. Turn left onto Dayton Road.
Keep your eyes open for a parking area on the right side of the road with a sign that reads "The Nature Conservancy, Devil's Den Preserve, Redding Land Trust". Park here, cross the street and head back down the road to a driveway on your right. Look for white blazes on the left side of this driveway - this is the trail that leads to the Great Ledge.
This trail goes uphill for a little more then a mile (maybe further) to a junction with a sign that says "Great Ledge". Follow the sign for another 1/2 mile to the top of the ledge.
There is a vague climbers trail near a stone wall just before you get to the actual top of the ledge. Take this downhill looking to your right for the cliff.
Alternatively you can access the great ledge via Devil's Den. This route will be a longer approach. I have uploaded a copy of the Devil's Den trail map with the Great Ledge loop highlighted.
I have not personally GPSed the location of this crag - I just found the general area on the map so please don't use a GPS and rely on these coordinates to bring you to the crag!
Browse More Classics in Great Ledge
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Great Ledge:
Featured Route For Great Ledge
Late For Supper
: ... : Main Face
Climb straight up and right from center of overhanging buldge. Start on tiny crimpers to undercling, then up through some good holds, then move out up and right on small holds to a big move to a horizontal, Pull lip above horizontal to easy slab climbing to anchors. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CT
BETA PHOTO: The sign at the parking area.
BETA PHOTO: The first major feature on the right side of the m...
BETA PHOTO: The big roof in the middle of the main face.
BETA PHOTO: Another shot of the Main Face - note the amaaaaazi...
BETA PHOTO: This is the trail map for Devil's Den. Notice the...
|By Will Maxwell|
May 11, 2010
This little crag has a long history for locals in the area. It has been a great little spot for those of us that live in Redding, and is worth checking out. I know my father climbed here in the 60's, and there are a few fixed pins from that era, or possibly earlier. The nasty paint at the base showed up a few years ago and really bummed me out. If anyone knows how to clean something like that, I would love to get rid of it.
There is little beta out there, because this is largely a top rope area and those that climb it aren't really concerned with beta. There are some fun little routes here. It offers great clean aid solo practice with a large and prominent roof. If you are into rope soloing, this is also a great spot. But please please please leave the rock as you found it! Graffiti morons are not the only ones beating on this poor little cliff. Over the years people have bolted, chopped, and used this rock as a pin practice area. Totally NOT OK. If you want to practice fixing iron, find a rock in your neighbors yard, not this one.
also, if you use your noggin, there is a quick and easy way to legally park and approach this cliff in about 5 minutes(not involving devils den).
Feb 6, 2011
We should tar and feather the @55holes who spray painted that cliff...
Jun 14, 2011
So the permit for the Saugutuck Res area - the land you cross to access the cliff and owned by the Aquerion Water Company - is simply to have a copy of their map in your possesion. Print the below and take it with you and you have a permit!!! FYI - Aquerion Water Company specifically prohibits climbing on their land however the cliff is not on their property.
Cliff GPS: 41.269569,-73.382644
|By Will Starks|
Aug 1, 2011
Well said, Will and Jack. The cliff has in the past month seen yet more [unnecessary] bolting and [unsightly] chopping, when all it really needs is cleaning. Thanks to those who have been working on removing the graffiti, and have left wire brushes and cleaning supplies hidden near the cliff for others to contribute to the effort to restore it to the condition that has made it an enjoyable, little travelled traditional and toprope climbing spot for fifty years. I pledge to do my part in ensuring that it remains one for as long as I live in this great climbing state.
|By chris bridge|
Aug 18, 2011
does anyone know if this place stays wet for awhile after a good rain?
|By chris bridge|
Aug 20, 2011
i agree if these bolt choppers care so much about the clif why cant they help get rid of the spray paint. i think hammer over bolts look alot worse than proper tr
anchors placed in a correct spot just saying, why does ct have to suck so much!??!!
|By erik kapec|
From: prescott, az
Jun 24, 2012
Yeah its really great theres effort going into cleaning the paint and whatnot off. But the uh, chemical bottles used to clean should probably not be left there....the paint being there does less to the area than having a bunch of plastic bottles and chems stashed. Im going there to clean that crap up. Please pack out what your gonna pack in...Thanks, and this is a sweet rock! Who smashed up the bolts? crazzy!