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It has to be low tide to get to the cave section. It is about a mile walk though and while a majority of the climbing is 5.11 + there is a classic 5.9 (now possibly 5.10 due to a broken hold (trad/toprope)). If you can stand the walk in and are willing to climb hard trad or TR, you can beat the crowds and still get the perfect Acadia experience.
Area on your left(north) when at Otter Cliffs. Stop Before You Get to Otter Cliffs!
14 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Great Head:
Featured Route For Great Head
Dragon Fish 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c ME : Acadia National Park : ... : The Cavern
Was project X3 in Jeff's book.The start is the crux. Bouldery moves on sea polished crimps go into radically steep fins and underclings. Continue bouldering out a body length horizontal roof on a stalactite tooth feature; very strange (V8ish?). After moving through the sea polished roof and statactite, climb through an amazing pocket covered face on a slightly overhanging wall to a another roof. Boulder through this roof into a technical corner. Hang on to the top. Absolutely amazing. ...[more] Browse More Classics in ME