It has to be low tide to get to the cave section. It is about a mile walk though and while a majority of the climbing is 5.11 + there is a classic 5.9 (now possibly 5.10 due to a broken hold (trad/toprope)). If you can stand the walk in and are willing to climb hard trad or TR, you can beat the crowds and still get the perfect Acadia experience.
There are also some much harder climbs in the 5.13 range if you are feeling really strong.
Thanks to ri.
for the contribution.
Area on your left(north) when at Otter Cliffs. Stop Before You Get to Otter Cliffs!
Cliffs will be oceanside of road.
Weather station 11.8 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Great Head
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Great Head
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Great Head:
Featured Route For Great Head
The FishScale 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b ME
: Acadia National Park
: ... : The Cavern
Rappel in with a fixed line to a belay. Then climb the obvious and radically steep prow. Amazing boulder problem to start then endurance and tech to the top. Hands down one of the most amazing hard 5.12's in New England!!!Was Project X4 in Jeff's Guide.Warning: You need a low-tide or small surf. Fix a line and know how to jug before attempting. Slightly scary. Hard....[more] Browse More Classics in ME
Feb 26, 2008
From the center of Bar Harbor follow rt 3 south for about a mile. Take a left onto Schooner Head Road. Follow straight to parking lot. From parking lot take the Great Head trail to cliff.
By Blake Cash
Mar 2, 2008
Actually...there are now 3 bolted lines in the cavern. one on the right side which goes at 12d, one to the right of transatlantic which is 13b-ish and then transatlantic itself which is 2 pitches and goes at 13a with a first 10a pitch on gear.
May 5, 2012
So much more potential at this cliff.