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Great Head

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Cavern, The 
Left wall 
Morning Glory Alcove 

Great Head  


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Location: 44.32671, -68.1759 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 36,987
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007
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Description 

It has to be low tide to get to the cave section. It is about a mile walk though and while a majority of the climbing is 5.11 + there is a classic 5.9 (now possibly 5.10 due to a broken hold (trad/toprope)). If you can stand the walk in and are willing to climb hard trad or TR, you can beat the crowds and still get the perfect Acadia experience.

There are also some much harder climbs in the 5.13 range if you are feeling really strong.

Thanks to ri. for the contribution.

Getting There 

Area on your left(north) when at Otter Cliffs. Stop Before You Get to Otter Cliffs!
Cliffs will be oceanside of road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.8 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Great Head:
Morning Glory   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Morning Glory Alcove
Black watch   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Morning Glory Alcove
Head Arete   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Left wall
Corsair   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Morning Glory Alcove
Highlander   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Morning Glory Alcove
The FishScale   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Cavern
Browse More Classics in Great Head

Featured Route For Great Head
On the FA, belayed by Pete Fasoldt

Dragon Fish 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  ME : Acadia National Park : ... : The Cavern
Was project X3 in Jeff's book.The start is the crux. Bouldery moves on sea polished crimps go into radically steep fins and underclings. Continue bouldering out a body length horizontal roof on a stalactite tooth feature; very strange (V8ish?). After moving through the sea polished roof and statactite, climb through an amazing pocket covered face on a slightly overhanging wall to a another roof. Boulder through this roof into a technical corner. Hang on to the top. Absolutely amazing. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Comments on Great Head Add Comment
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By nickv
Feb 26, 2008
From the center of Bar Harbor follow rt 3 south for about a mile. Take a left onto Schooner Head Road. Follow straight to parking lot. From parking lot take the Great Head trail to cliff.
By Blake Cash
Mar 2, 2008
Actually...there are now 3 bolted lines in the cavern. one on the right side which goes at 12d, one to the right of transatlantic which is 13b-ish and then transatlantic itself which is 2 pitches and goes at 13a with a first 10a pitch on gear.
By Echoinfi
May 5, 2012
So much more potential at this cliff.