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East Fork Valley
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Great Grey Book 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 900', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tim Wolfe and Chris Abbott, Sept 1998
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: Tim Wolfe on Aug 31, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Topo guide of the route

Description 

After multiple forays up this formation looking for a free route (not willing to drill or hammer the quite difficult upper portion of the wall) we finally found a complete route on this wall. The route is very fun - not too hard, not too long, super easy to descend with consistently good climbing and little loose rock (for the mountains). Our second favorite route we ever put up in the Winds over the last 15 years.

Approach: Walk to the base of the "Apostle" and ascend the right leaning descent gully about 150 feet until just below a large roof with the obvious grey rock to its left. Below this is a chimney that marks the first pitch.

Pitch 1: 5.7 or 5.8 Climb flakes up to the chimney and then climb the chimney (it is much easier to lie-back this chimney). At the top of the chimney carefully climb up and right into the grey corner. 40 m
Pitch 2: 5.8 Climb the grey dihedral as far as you can. A spectacular pitch. 70 m
Pitch 3: 5.8/4th: Climb the rest of the grey dihedral, then fourth class it up and right to the far side of a grassy ledge below many discontinuous flakes. 40 m
Pitch 4: 5.9 Climb the flakes and discontinuous cracks searching for the least difficult way through the several roofs above. Stretch the rope all the way to some small ledges. A spectacular pitch of finger cracks, lie-backs and small roofs. 70 m
Pitch 5: 5.7 Connect flakes, cracks and small roofs directly above to the summit. Multiple possibilities exist. 70 m

If using a 60 m rope or not interested in pushing the full extent of the rope - there are plenty of options for other belays to make this a 6 or 7 pitch route.


Location 

See the photos and the topo. Hike up the East Fork Valley to the area below the formation, climb the talus up to the base then ascend the gully to the right for about 150 feet until below a large roof with grey rock and an obvious open book corner to its left. The route starts in a chimney left and below this roof to access the open book crack.


Protection 

Standard alpine rack - nothing special



Photos of Great Grey Book Slideshow Add Photo
Photo of the "Apostle" formation with location of the Great Grey book route and the descent gully
BETA PHOTO: Photo of the "Apostle" formation with location of ...
Overview of the route and formation locations in the upper East Fork Valley
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the route and formation locations in t...
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