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Dream Weaver Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Dream Weaver T,TR 
Great Expectations T,TR 
Locomotive Breath T 
Psycho Path T,TR 
Tiptoe T,TR 

Great Expectations 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 394
Submitted By: Kurtz on Aug 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: The start

Description 

This route wanders delightfully all over the face to the left of Right Wing wall. Start in the Herbarium corner and climb up about 15 feet onto the protruding block. Traverse all the way to the left, passing under a small roof formed by another large block. Follow the ramp you'll find on the other side, up until you are forced onto the arete on your right by a roof. Step right onto the face and move your feet up in preparation for a big step left. Grasp the sloper gratefully and scramble up the arete to the top.


Location 

Starts in the Herbarium (far left) corner of Right Wing wall. Walk off to the right.


Protection 

Best with double ropes because of traverse. A 4"+ cam protects the first moves. Plenty of pro across the traverse and at the start of the ramp, BUT... opportunites and quality dwindle to zero long before you reach the crux.

The metal railings cemented into the top can be used to anchor a toprope. Protect against a pendulum at the start by flicking the rope over the corner of the block.



Photos of Great Expectations Slideshow Add Photo
The end.  Expect great pro at the top and you will be disappointed!
BETA PHOTO: The end. Expect great pro at the top and you will...
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By Kurtz
Aug 27, 2012

I love this climb (on toprope). An attentive belayer is helpful because you'll constantly be adjusting slack. You can vary the route quite a bit to suit your mood (you can even do the Tiptoe start).

I led 75% of it once and yelled for a rope when I realized that I was at the crux 20 feet above and 10 feet right of my last tiny nut with 20 feet more to go. Even if the nut held, the fall would have been horrendous. Once I clipped onto the rope, the fear dissipated like magic.

If you want to lead it with a bit of safety margin, drop a rope from the metal rail with loops tied into it every 4 feet. A bit cowardly, I admit.

By George Maynard
Jun 25, 2013

A great lead. My climbing partner who is notorious for sandbagging me into climbs told me to climb this. I swear i heard, ''It's only 5.6 R'' R being rrreally fun. I got to the crux downclimbed, put in more gear, kept telling myself it was only 5.6 and went to the top. I don't recommend falling on this one.