|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Joe Lee on Nov 18, 2007|
|Comments on Great Expectations||Add Comment|
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From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 18, 2007
FA: Steve Grossman, Rich Thompson, 1976
10- Finish: Charlie Rollins, Josh Tofield, Tom Bingham 1979
1st pitch is about old school 5.8
10a is for the second pitch going up through the corner to the right of the gear belay. There's an old pin not far from the belay.
Exiting left has maybe one exposed 5.4-5.6 move and then it's fourth class
Then the 5.8 third option for the second pitch is to traverse to the last bolt on "Desire" and then head right from there.
If you wanted to sew it up you could bring an extra #3 and #4 and maybe even a #5, but that might hinder your maneuverability as far as switching sides in the chimney.
The rock is not that sharp but pads could be helpful. Tape is definitely helpful.