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 ADVANCED
Great Expectations Area (FTGU Left Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Love T,S 
Crystal Ether T 
Derezzed T 
Exacerbation S,TR 
Great Expectations T 
Marc's Mixup T,S 
Men Giving Birth T 
Midget Love S 
Murder in the Dark S 
Raoul Silva S 
Rapidfire T 
Skyfall S 
Tattle Tales S 
Twilight Sparkle T 
Vertebrae S 
Where in The World Is Carmen Pellegrino? S 
Wisecrack T 

Great Expectations 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,162
Submitted By: Marc-Andre on Sep 18, 2007

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Lorne placing a chock before moving to the right ...

Description 

Great Expectations is the dihedral/roof to the right of Exacerbation, It starts in the shallow crack leading up to the tiny ledge from wich you clip the first bolt (to the right) The crux is getting from the bolt to the dihedral and requires balance and footwork, once in the dihedral (which takes chocks very nicely!) layback until you are nearly at the roof. The route goes up and around the right of the roof and tops out to the right of the tree at the top.


Location 

The route just to the right of exacerbation (the bolted arete on the left)


Protection 

After the one bolt at the crux some larger chocks or smallish cams are required to protect the crack in the dihedral.



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By Brock Wilson
Jul 2, 2010

I'm not a Harrison climber, but shouldn't the description be to head around left of the roof? Or is there at least a variation that goes out left?

By Marco
Jul 5, 2010

Some climbers will traverse left to the chains for a slightly harder finish.

By C-Tuttle
Jun 21, 2011

Here is a photo I shot of Lisel Petersen climbing the route out to the left.  10+  <a href='http://www.codytuttle.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.codytuttle.com</a>
Here is a photo I shot of Lisel Petersen climbing the route out to the left. 10+ www.codytuttle.com

Here I a shot I took of Lisel Petersen climbing the roof out to the left. When I climbed it I felt it was 10+ maybe 11 for the shorter folk. www.codytuttle.com