Great Expectations 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Marc-Andre on Sep 18, 2007 |
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Lorne placing a chock before moving to the right ...
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Description Great Expectations is the dihedral/roof to the right of Exacerbation, It starts in the shallow crack leading up to the tiny ledge from wich you clip the first bolt (to the right) The crux is getting from the bolt to the dihedral and requires balance and footwork, once in the dihedral (which takes chocks very nicely!) layback until you are nearly at the roof. The route goes up and around the right of the roof and tops out to the right of the tree at the top.
Location The route just to the right of exacerbation (the bolted arete on the left)
Protection After the one bolt at the crux some larger chocks or smallish cams are required to protect the crack in the dihedral.
| Comments on Great Expectations |
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By Brock Wilson Jul 2, 2010
| I'm not a Harrison climber, but shouldn't the description be to head around left of the roof? Or is there at least a variation that goes out left? |
By Marco Jul 5, 2010
| Some climbers will traverse left to the chains for a slightly harder finish. |
By C-Tuttle Jun 21, 2011
| | Here is a photo I shot of Lisel Petersen climbing the route out to the left. 10+ www.codytuttle.com Submitted By: C-Tuttle on Jun 21, 2011
| Here I a shot I took of Lisel Petersen climbing the roof out to the left. When I climbed it I felt it was 10+ maybe 11 for the shorter folk. www.codytuttle.com |
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