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Leading in Oct. '03.
This climb starts 30-40 feet before La Cholla Jackson, and 20-30 feet before Chunky Monkey. Look for a large dihedral with a distinct knife-edge arete in the corner. Great Expectations begins on an east-facing wall 3 climbs to the left of this arete. The picture included has this listed as #80.
The climbing starts by clipping a red homemade coldshut, and two other bolts before jumping around the arete on great holds (8). One should use long runners or unclip the second draw, and have your partner unclip the first to reduce rope drag. The climbing continues to a steep and juggy headwall with small roofs and long reaches. Good rests along with spectacular position and exposure makes this a great climb!!
9 bolts plus anchors.
Per 303scott: I think the route location description is wrong. I think it is the 3rd route to climber's RIGHT of the knife edge. 3rd to the left is an 11b.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
Jesse Jakomait starting up Great Expectations.
Jesse stemming the upper section of Great Expectat...
|Comments on Great Expectations
|By Mic Fairchild|
Nov 3, 2003
A fun and sustained route everyone should consider. As with most Cactus climbs, ratings may be a little soft.
Another fun line when you're cranking 10-15 pitches per day.
|By Not So Famous Old Dude|
From: Denver, CO
Apr 28, 2008
Only way to make it 10c is to stay out of the corner. In one place, about where shown in the picture I think you will have to use the corner to avoid making it harder than rated. But if you use it too much, the route will seem soft. Go straight up to the anchors from the last bolt and you will be crimping and not downrating the climb.
Mar 4, 2010
I think the route location description is wrong. I think it is the 3rd route to climber's RIGHT of the knife edge. 3rd to the left is an 11b.
|By Doug Lintz|
From: Kearney, NE
Apr 12, 2010
I used the corner for a couple moves as shown in the picture. Without it, there's no way this would be a 5.10.
|By Julius Beres|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 17, 2012
I assumed the corner/crack was the trad line Fishisms, so I tried only climbing the face. There is no way it is 5.10 or even 5.11 if you don't use the corner (I felt it was harder than the 11c I got on next). After flailing, I gave up and used the corner, in which case it felt more like 5.9. I just don't see how this goes at 10c unless you use some contrived sequence where the corner is "on" some times and not "on" other times....