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BETA PHOTO: Start of route with a #1 C4 set for the crux
Well-protected, powerful crux near the ground. After the crux I protected out left for the next move. Then go up through the smooth dihedral to gain good pro. Move left under roof until you get to weakness and head up to crow's nest belay/rap anchor.
The crack just left of Super Direct.
Up to #2 C4 with an assortment of smaller pieces. Watch the rope drag. Double ropes suggested
By Matt Westlake
Sep 2, 2013
I tried this a while back and ran into a lot of sketchy loose rock between the start and the area below the big roof one presumably traverses left under. I ended up moving right to the Super Direct crack and setting a belay to get away and finished on that route.
I wasn't completely sold on the pro at the start and traversed in via an easy 5.6ish unprotected path from the left. Out of curiosity, how did this start roof move compare to Super Direct?
By Emil Briggs
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The move is about the same difficulty as Super Direct but I agree the pro doesn't inspire the same confidence as that on Super Direct.