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Hold Up Bluffs South
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Great Escape T 

Great Escape 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 172
Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Apr 6, 2008

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Description 

Look for the obvious slightly diagonal crack on the left-hand portion of the wall. Start by climbing a slabby section to where the angle steepens and the crack gets wider. Continue up past a slightly chossy flared section, after which you'll pass a small roof on the left. Soon after that, leave the crack and angle left across the face past a rusty fixed pin (crux), then up and right to the anchor.

Protection 

Standard rack


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By gregybn
Apr 8, 2008

A nice short climb with lots of variety... A good practice lead, warm-up, or top-rope.
Starts with an easy slab, good pro in horizontal and vertical cracks.
I put in a bolt to protect the move left, up a short ramp, into the corner - not a difficult move, but a slip there would give a long fall down the slab.
I also put in a bolt for the "escape" out of the corner... it can be protected with a cam, but the tendency was to go too high into the corner and it made for a difficult exit left. The bolt keeps you on route and makes it much safer.
BTW... You can keep climbing up the corner, but pro gets sketchy to non-existent and difficulties increase to 5.11ish.
The upper moves, left to the anchors, are the crux... it was impossible to use nuts/cams in a very thin crack... so originally there was an old fixed pin (from early 80's?) for the airy moves.
Although I could have placed a bolt... I chose to keep the "character" of the climb intact by putting in a bomber fixed pin (This was in the early 90's... but I will assume it's still good??)