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Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
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Great Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Jim Goodwin
Page Views: 864
Submitted By: DWABS on Jan 2, 2011

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Bouldery start to the first pitch of "The Chimney"...

Description 

P1: The start is a scramble up some blocks to a right facing corner. Up this to the opening of the chimney. Surmount the chockstone (crux) and into the mountain you go. Fixed anchor for belay. 5.6

P2: Scramble into the chimney to a thin crack on the road-side wall and begin to stem up the chimney. Eventually, step left to fixed anchor. 5.5

P3: Traverse across and downclimb to the summit boulders near the top of "Pete's Farewell". 5.2


Location 

Start same as "Pete's Farewell".


Protection 



Photos of Great Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing up the neck of the chimney to the "window" for a nice view of Cascade Lakes
Climbing up the neck of the chimney to the "window...
Adam and Dylan at the first belay station on "Great Chimney", 11/13/2010.
Adam and Dylan at the first belay station on "Grea...
View from the 2nd pitch.
View from the 2nd pitch.
Comments on Great Chimney Add Comment
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By Jay Harrison
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

For Pitch 2, one can also chimney directly upward from the top of P1, then exit roadside through a "window" onto the main face. A short bit of climbing leads up to a ledge with a fixed anchor which can be used to descend into the chimney down to the P1 fixed anchor, or with 70m rope, down the face to the starting ledge. This latter method is tight; be sure your rope ends reach the ledge.