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Great Chimney Route
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.3 from 3
votes
Routes in The Castle
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Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Parapet Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 952 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tzilla Rapdrilla on Feb 15, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route ascends the cleft between the two big chunks of the Castle itself. Look for a big chimney feature in a right-facing flake feature directly below some blocky roofs. All pitches are between 100' & 140'.
P1, 5.8. Chimney your way up miscellaneous stuff for about 125' to a ledge.
P2, 5.9-. Follow the main corner/cracks up and slightly leftwards to a belay ledge.
P3. Head up & right across the main chimney system to more a more appealing looking crack. Continue up to a roof which is passed on the right side (crux) and then up to a belay.
P4. Head left towards a right-facing corner and then up a crack system to the final slabs.
P1, 5.8. Chimney your way up miscellaneous stuff for about 125' to a ledge.
P2, 5.9-. Follow the main corner/cracks up and slightly leftwards to a belay ledge.
P3. Head up & right across the main chimney system to more a more appealing looking crack. Continue up to a roof which is passed on the right side (crux) and then up to a belay.
P4. Head left towards a right-facing corner and then up a crack system to the final slabs.
Location
The major chimney system that splits the main crag halfway between The Nose route and the big, tree filled gully.
Photos
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