Greasy Kid Stuff
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Climb thin cracks and flakes up the slab between the Guillotine and Graham Crackers to a short fist crack ending 80' up. Here the difficulties begin with a tough-to-protect seam (bring micro-nuts), then a horizontal with a shallow blue Alien sized pin scar, and 20' of slab (crux) to the rap anchor. The upper slab is a bit contrived, avoiding a short traverse left to easier, more featured rock. Climb up the center of the slab for full effect.
Rappel the route with a 70m or two ropes, or climb easier terrain to the top and walk off.
Nuts and small cams for the bottom, then a #3 or #4 Camalot for the fist crack, and micronuts and a blue Alien (or equivalent) to protect the runout to the top.
|Comments on Greasy Kid Stuff
|By Adam Kimmerly|
May 26, 2009
Climbing straight up the center of the blank slab from the pin scar seemed like the coolest line, but also the hardest and felt more like 10b/c. Moving slightly right looked like it may have been a tad easier with better looking dishes to smear in. Moving left looked easy and off-route. Clark Jacobs indicated that there used to be a fixed pin in the horizontal to protect the runout at the top. The pin is gone and the scar was full of dirt. Once cleaned out, it took a relatively good blue Alien which probably would have held a fall from the crux. If not, it would have been a LONG ride down to the last good piece!