|b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
An excellent 5.6 pitch that marks the leftmost of the densest, highest quality climbing in the Nears. Beyond this the rock quality drops dramatically.
Start about 100' left of Birdland, at a slabby left-facing corner above a chest-high bulge.
P1: Make a tough bouldery move over the bulge into the corner. Continue up the corner, go right under a roof, and climb a steep wall capped by a small roof (pin) to a tree with a rap anchor. Good climbing all the way up. 5.6, 80'.
There is a second pitch but I've never done it or seen anyone on it.
(Several comments below: "a safari" - ed.)
Standard Gunks rack
a nice view of the 5.8 crack/roof variation...
BETA PHOTO: First few moves of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: further up on P1
Mark Mooradian nearing the top of the first pitch.
|Comments on Grease Gun Groove
Jan 5, 2007
The second pitch is a safari. I gave it a go one time and found myself pulling on vegetation while my feet were skittering off dirty holds. It's too bad, really, because the rock was not awful, although the moves are not particularly memorable.
Jul 17, 2008
There's an interesting roof variation to GGG. The variation can be seen from the ground. About 3/4 the way up to the top, to the left of the regular route, you will see a roof with a crack. Traverse over to the roof and pull it at the crack. This variation is not in my (Swain) guidebook. It is well protected and goes at about 8+.
One word of warning. I told a friend about the variation and he warned me about a possible loose block up there. I don't remember any questionable rock.
Jul 20, 2008
There is indeed a loose block above - as in, you're standing just after having pulled - the crux roof on the variation. It's fairly loose, but fairly obviously loose. You'll want to place pro to protect follower(s) climbing through the roof, so take care to place it well above the loose block and you'll be fine.
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 27, 2008
The first pitch is fun, with the crux move right off the ground. The gear is great, the moves even better. I found the second pitch fun as well. It's not too well traveled, so beware of grassy ledges, lichen etc.
Oct 10, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
stop at the first pitch, second pitch is a safari.
|By Mark Roth|
Apr 7, 2011
There is a fun 5.11 variation a few feet right of the start. Might as well top rope it while you are here... Really just a tall boulder problem, and being tall is also helpful.
|By Neil Steinert|
Jun 17, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
I liked the 2nd pitch (it is grassy with lichen). The first pitch is better and more cruxy in my opinion.