|Secture Demi Lune
BETA PHOTO: 'la javanaise' on the left and 'gre blanc' on the ...
A newer line and also one of my favorite climbs at the Demi-Lune. I don't think i'll ever get tired of doing this one. Classic Ceuse face climbing on pockets and edges up a slightly overhanging orange wall. Start on good pockets which slowly get smaller until you make thin moves out left which lead to a sequential crux over a slight bulge at 40ft. More thin moves on shallow pockets lead through a couple big pockets good enough to shake out on. One more final crux through the final bulge (tricky) and voila!
Just to the right of 'la javanaise' on the other side of the bush.
Bolts to a fixed anchor. You need about 12 draws.