Grayson Highlands State Park 

As someone interested in visiting Grayson (GHSP) in the near future, I have a quick question about the star designations for the area. I notice that there are a large number of problems that are given 3 and 4 star ratings. I am curious if these ratings are in relation just to other GHSP boulder problems, or in comparison to national bouldering standards of a similar grade? For example, is Bi-Lingual's 4 star designation in comparison only to other V1 problems at GHSP, or is it 4 stars because it stands shoulder to shoulder with a problem like the Hueco Tanks V1 classic "Backscratcher?"

One way or another, GHSP sounds like a really amazing place (and the pictures are phenomenal) and I hope to check it out as soon as possible. Thanks also for all the work on this area, it is very informative and appears to have been done by people who are intimately knowledgeable about the area.

Im stoked to hear you might come out to Grayson! The star rating is about to be fixed, among other aspects of the web page. Not to say that all of the four-star ratings don't hold true, but you must understand that the problems were added to the pages as soon as they were developed. as a matter of fact, Im going to start redoing them now.... when you get this it should mostly be fixed.

Grayson is absolutely fantastic. I have never had the opportunity to go to Hueco, but I have seen a significant amount of east coast climbing, and my favorite place is still Grayson. Hands down.

The star rating is within Grayson, since I don't know every classic problem from Yosemite to Pawtuckaway. Just know that any four-star will be awesome.

Oh, and COEveryman... check the weather if you are coming here in the winter, lol...

Aaron--Thank you so much for taking time to respond to my question, and there can be no doubt about it--I am stoked to come and check it out. I am currently stuck in Blacksburg working on a graduate degree dreaming of the day I will have the time to come down. Thanks for all you hard work on this.

PS-Myself and a number of my friends have commented on how the picture you have posted on the home page looks strikingly like Hueco Tanks. Really, if you just showed the picture to someone, chance are they would guess Hueco. It definitely seems to be a positive omen . . .

No way, that's awesome that you're going to VT, I was just accepted and will be going there starting in the fall semester (small world)... I just did the comp at "the rock", were you able to go to it?... anyway, send me a message or look me up and I'll give you the tour for sure, along with everyone else ill be climbing with from B-Burg. the spring send-season should kick off in another couple of week for this area, so be ready!!
-I had never noticed it, but now that you mention it, the picture does bear a striking resemblance... thats crazy, lol-

Aaron,

I was at the comp at the rock the other night. I'm president of VT's climbing club but won't be after this semester because I'm graduating. Anyway, I'm trying to head down there with COEveryman (Jordan) soon to check the area out. Hope it's as good as you say, the pictures look totally awesome.

Sam Stephens,
Im really excited about joining the climbing club myself. At the comp I placed second in advanced, I don't know if that helps put name-to-face or not.
I wish I had more/better pictures of the place. The ones here are a vast understatement, and the there are entire areas without representation...Im working on it I swear. Anyway, I can guarantee you'll love the place.
I hate you wont be there next semester (congrats on graduating soon though), but I would like to show you guys around. there will be some really exciting bouldering going on there this coming season, so stay in touch. It's going to kick off soon hopefully, and the more hands and pads the better the climb!

Is there a rock climbing store in SoVA? Can you rent bouldering pads anywhere down there?

Stanley,
Unfortunately I dont know of anywhere in sova with rental pads... the regular hikers in the park are just now getting used to seeing "pad people". Still yet, there are a growing number of boulderers with pads here, and I know i personally would be glad to throw in a pad/spot if you came to GHSP to boulder.

Also Stanley, Im going to pitch the idea to the park service about keeping a rental pad or two the contact station. Hopefully in the future this will be an attainable commodity at Grayson Highlands. Thanks

Here's a video of our recent trip to Grayson Highlands. Thanks Aaron for showing us around and helping us have the best bouldering vacation since Fontainebleau! Amazing place!

awesome video! im glad you guys had a good time up here. there are only two small corrections i want to list. "Bi-Lingual" (v1/2) goes from the sit, (which I think you did just not in the video), and "Jaws" in the video is actually "Benadryl" (V0+). I think the ponies were for sure the highlight of the whole thing though. Nice job!!

Thanks Aaron...
I didnt think it was Jaws, but I couldnt remember what else it could have been, thanks for the clarification. I did send Bi-Lingual the correct way, but the video of the SDS was only a partial and the stand version was unfortunately better. Thanks for the comments and the awesome time up at Grayson!

AAron,
I tried to keep this area low key for more than a decade, I was
planning a trip this weekend with some friends and decided to
see what was on the net, much to my surprize I saw our old areas
posted. It was just to good to keep in the bag. We have establised
hundreds of problems in the area of Listing Rock Loop, Wilson Creek
Wilburn Ridge and Pine Mountain. There are many more areas hidden
in the back country. I will do my best in the future to post the
problems we establised in the main areas. Some of them are Thunder
Arete, Hoot Owl Roof, Flight of the Butterfly, May Fly Cave,
Lightning Bolt Crack, Double Runnel, Shotgun Wedding, Hot Wings,
just to name a few. These problems were established from the late
90's to the present. It is a great area, please be respectful of
the pristine natural environment, thats what makes the area.

Steven D. Pope

Steven Pope,
First and forearms, Id like to say thanks for being cordial and not up in arms about my posting this incredible bouldering area. I've run into a handful of climbers other than yourself who blew up at me before hearing what I've had to say... that being said, Ill be up front with you and tell you that Im smack dab in the middle of authoring a full color guidebook about GHSP.
Im always stoked to hear about people who have climbed in the area, especially the pioneers of the place. Im from the area, and having been born and bred in these mountains I can assure you that I want nothing more than to preserve them. Im working very closely with the park service to ensure there are no access issues, and to be positive that everything I've developed is okay.
I know that there are TONS of other areas around GHSP that are comparable, but Im not interested in posting them. GHSP is a state maintained area that is open to bouldering, and because of the amenities in close proximity to the boulders and the maintained trails and the other attractions in the park I think it is a true gem in Virginia for the sport. I would rather keep the satellite areas and smaller spots obscure, but that's not my call. I only focused on the park as far as posting problems and boulders.
If you would like to send me pictures of your FAs in GHSP I would be stoked to list them! I know James Litz and friends climbed at a couple of spots in GHSP in the 90's but he wasn't sure what he had done and claimed nothing. There have been others that were claiming FAs as well but it was more or less speculation and scrambles on slabs in the Highlands Area. Im only listing Problems within the park boundaries, but would love to know about other spots (through messages to keep them low key preferably).
Ill put out this apology not only to you, but to everyone else who held onto GHSP as a secret spot. IM SORRY!!! but the bouldering here is phenomenal and in my opinion the best in the state. the hoards of smaller "secret spots" will still be there, but no one kept the fly fishing, the waterfalls, the unique natural balds, the hiking trails, the bike trails, the cross country skiing, the views, or any of the other fantastic things the park has to offer a secret... it was just a matter of time.
Thanks again for contacting me, and please do send me some photos of you on some FAs or message me with some cool spots. hope to see you out there Steven.

-Aaron Parlier

About the "star" rating at Grayson.

I would say Front Man at Bishop would be 3 stars (out of 4), but would be 4 star at HP-40/LRC/South East.

"True Grit" would be probably 4 star at Hueco or maybe a high 3, but probably a 2 or 3 star in the south due to sharpness.

Both are 4 star problems at Grayson.

SLS would be 3 or 4 star anywhere.

just from my experiences....

If anyone doesn't know Dan I'll just say he's been nearly everywhere you would really want to go in the U.S. and is a perfect source for comparisons on places to climb... I havent been many other places other than Hueco and the east (and I dont really feel comfortable comparing places and grades) but I certainly agree with this. Thanks for the insight Dan. What would you think about Beastmaker or Thews for instance?

Thews....is hard. I <3 it but I can't really do it, so its hard to say, but I think about it every night before bed. Right after I stop thinking about Raina and right before I start thinking about "Iron Man Traverse" in Bishop. Its hard to say.

But seriously, I think Thews would be 3 or 4 stars probably anywhere.

Beastmaker same thing - never been on it/can't do it so I couldn't say.

star ratings are all really objective of course. Like Julia (Statler) hated "True Grit" I wouldn't give it four stars either, but our friend Ryan loved it and was like "best problem Eva' "

Stephen,

I think its important to realize that, when doing a guidebook, especially bouldering, its hard to get FA information. For all we know, the kids who used to own the farm used to hike Thews....We'll mention development history in the "history" section but won't be given FAs for problems etc etc.

I have no doubt in my mind that Aaron is sending a bunch of new stuff and its pretty obvious when you clean something if its been done before, but that's just the nature and mystique of bouldering. I hope we're not treading on your names and if you have "names" for stuff that you've done in the past, we'd LOVE to document that as well.

You should totally be like...yeah we did "True Grit" 15 years ago, but called it the "Happy Happy Sugar Blade Sprinkle Dance" or something...

I have heard lots of negative talk about this place. So after my first visit I would like to completely disagree. First of all, the lowball stigma is completely misplaced. Most of the boulders were at least 20ft tall. The Olympus boulder basically the M1 boulder with significantly more lines. The quality of the rock was similar to Hound Ears, just like I was told. The top outs are generous, and its nice to get some air while not trying to determine the co-pay of my insurance provider. The summer temps are cool and there is plenty of shade. GHSP is less than an hour from Boone, it would be a shame to miss out on this place.

Jonathan Holofchak:
I laugh at the lowball thing... there are more highball boulders here than at HP40. seriously... but hey, save your breath man, when this full color guidebook comes out (soon)with 600+ boulder problems in it, and when the videos hit the main stream people are gonna recognise. Until then enjoy the peace and quiet up here and let the haters sweat it out elsewhere... Glad you enjoyed youself bro, it was nice meeting you!

Thanks so much for all the great information. You mention there is camping. Could you possibly post more info on that? Can you camp anywhere? Designated spots? Free?

Thanks

Alec Beard:
No problem, Ill post more info in the next day or so!

Alec:
I've posted some info under the "need to know" info tab on the left side of the screen under the areas portion on the main page above... Click on :need to know info" then click on "Camping" and you'll find hopefully what you need to know on camping. If not, please ask me any further questions and Ill be happy to help in any way!

Hi,
I was wondering when the guidebook is set to be released?
Also, will it only be for sale or for free online?

Cheers,
DA

Hopefully within a years time, and for sale.

How much is the entrance fee?Camping permit? I'll be heading up for a few days sometime soon.

Rick: Entrance fee is $2.00 for the weekdays, $3.00 at peak season/weekends, however that may have changed to 2 dollars now that school is back in. Camping is 25 dollars for the campsite, but you can have several people on one site and it includes water and hot showers/nice restrooms. You can also hike up into the highlands into the MRNRA area and camp for free but its a 30 min hike pretty easy though). I like the campground. Lemmi know if you would like a tour of the place! Glad you’re gonna check it out!

I have looked over the State Park website and this section of Mountain Project - let me just say thanks for putting forth so much effort in developing GHSP for the rest of us. Well done sir!

I'm planning on coming down for the weekend soon (maybe even tomorrow) and I wanted to know where to set up camp that is nearest to that picture of the somewhat highball problem (the contrasted picture with the person standing on top, hands high)? Essentially, where should my GF and I stay that is near showers/toilets...etc and also allows for a reasonable hike to those big boulders? Thanks!

VACLIMBER:
Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner, Ive been doing the Triple Crown bouldering comps, and I just returned from Chattanooga. The best place to camp nearest the boulders (I think youre referring to the Highland Area, which encompasses the Wilburn Ridge region of the park, and continues into the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area "MRNRA"). If you hike up from the parking area for Wilburn Ridge, just follow the trail up and stay on the Appalachian Trail (dont turn right to the first huge cluster, you will pass through a wooden hiker/pony gate. Once you pass through that you can camp anywhere for free... And its beautiful out there!!! Again, sorry it took me a couple days to reply, usually Im quick about it. Hope you got out there!
-Aaron James Parlier

Hey Aaron! Jody Johnston, Mark Mellette, and a few other buddies went to Grayson a few weeks ago and we got rowdy. Here is a video that some friends and I made from our most recent trip. Unfortunately, there are a few errors in the video. Parliers Problem is a V8 and the FA in the video is actually a problem called Finger Confusion. Is this correct?

Nicholas:
Yes on both counts, Par's Problem is an 8 and Finger Confusion is/was a 7, but its just grades man, I loved the video! I cant wait for warmer weather to come back and for some spring time sessions... I guess its the south for the winter for now. Again, nice video and Im glad you guys got to climb some fun problems, they're all really good lines!

I appreciate it Aaron. Yea they're just grades, who cares! I'm looking forward to some warmer weather as well. I have some projects at GHSP that I need to get back on! Also, a lot of buzz has been created about Grayson and a lot of people are talking about getting out there in the spring. Keep up the great work Aaron!

Good to hear! Just in time for the guide:)

Does anyone know what the conditions will be like here during the first week of March? Thinking of stopping for a day or 2 before I go to the New

Steve: Im watching the weather for this week as well... Historically its cold and wet, but this winter has been very out of character. Its hit or miss. I bouldered nearly all day long in a t-shirt this past Saturday. Two days later it snowed, and the snow was followed a couple days of rain. My best advice for you is probably what you would be doing anyway, which is just to watch the weather channel and hope for the best. Wish I could be more helpful!

Thanks for the info Aaron. Also I see your the one putting together a guide book. Will it be published by march? and if not where do you recommend climbing at if im only their for 2 or 3 days? I boulder around V4 right now

Steve,
No problem on the info! I am finishing up the guide as we speak, but, no it will not be for sale by that time...

I do recommend that you check out the LRT and Picnic Areas if they are open at that point in the year (its been a very mild winter so chances are good)...

In addition to these areas or if the gates are closed to the aforementioned areas, the Boneyard/AVP is amazing but sometimes they can be hard to navigate without a local or some prior knowledge. That being said, lots of people find their way around the place okay just by MP directions... Still yet, to get the full GHSP experience, I always recommend checking out the Highlands Area, especially on your first visit... its phenomenal and is an experience you can only really find in Grayson. Also be sure to stop by the Contact Station since its one of the most straight forward areas to climb at and it doesn't disappoint. Hope this helps! And be sure to keep an eye on the weather!

This is awesome. Thanks for the info aaron. Do you know of a place where I can find a map of where the areas are?

steve:
The areas are pretty self explanatory if you follow the directions off of MP. The boulders in picnic, Contact Station, and even AVP are smaller clusters (4-8 big boulders), and the LRT boulders aren't too hard to navigate... Shoot me an email when you plan on visiting and I would be glad to try to meet up and show you around some of the areas you're interested in since the guidebook isn't out yet. I have no doubt you could find you're way around without a problem, but having someone that is familiar with the place makes things easier for sure. If that sounds good just let me know! Otherwise, print off the pages here and you'll do fine.

Hey man, Went out there with some friends that had talked with you about the area. We climbed some pretty cool stuff, but not what we expected. Where is this "bone yard".

Tison,
Glad you came out! The LRT is still closed (I think I mentioned that at the top of the page here) and it is normally the most frequented area for people who have not been to the park before. It’s the same situation for the Picnic Area. Without a guidebook or a local to show you all around it’s going to be hard to find a lot of the areas even though they are very close to the parking areas. MP is good for a reference in well known areas but for GHSP it can be hard to navigate with if you aren’t at all familiar with the park. The boneyard is often the most difficult area to find for new visitors and I won’t try to describe it over a comment but I’m always glad to show people around. GHSP is a big place and the areas are spread throughout the park in clusters. If you go there and only know of one or two places it will seem as if it offers much less than the 650ish boulder problems that are presently there. If you want to meet up and check out the boneyard/AVP area that would be great, or wait for a bit as the guidebook is in its final stage and should be out for the late summer/fall season.

righton, I live in Asheville, NC so I don't know if I'll be making it back real soon, but I would like to check out some new stuff. I'll be in touch if we head back up.

When does the park usually open? I am thinking of heading down that way during the first week of April.

The park is open, its only three areas in particular that are closed. LRT, Moonlight, and Picnic are gated off. I would say that late April/May they will be re-opened permanently, but my guess is that if the weather continues to be awesome as it has been that they will re-open earlier than normal. They may be open mid April, but historically the average is the first week of May.

The Contact Station Area, AVP, Boneyard, Crooked Road, and Highlands Areas all are open year long though, and with those areas you would have several days worth of bouldering to explore. Hope you make it down!

Aaron, I will definitely be down that week. Is it easy to find the Boneyard and the AVP areas. I am stoked to check it out.

Bigdan,
Its easy to find Highlands and Contact. Really easy in fact. But AVP and Boneyard have proved somewhat difficult for new visitors to the park. AVP less so than Boneyard, but the two are practically in the same place. I know many people who have navigated the area without a hitch but others who were desperately confused. Keep me posted on when you'll be in the area, just shoot me a message or two closer to time, and I will be happy to give you a guide around (maybe even get into the LRT if we're lucky) if youre interested.

I'm going to be down there this Tuesday and Wednesday to hike Mt.Rogers, but I'd like to get some bouldering in and I'll be bringing my pad. What trails or parking areas are the Boneyard and Highland bouldering area near? Thanks for the help, appreciate the effort that went into this page.

Fish: Thanks! Highlands are the first main cluster of boulders you will see (cant miss them honestly) when you come to the Rhododendron Gap/Massy Gap parking along the main road or for the overnight parking lot... I would honestly recommend checking out the Contact Station Area while you are there as they are SUPER easy to locate as well. Boneyard is a bit harder to find but if you follow directions that I have listed on the boneyard page you should be alright (same goes for AVP), but Im not going to try to elaborate further directions via comments on here to avoid writing a novel. Visitors have equally found them and not found them by the posted location on the Boneyard page, but the boulders are haphazardly scattered across the hillside. Sorry! Highlands & Contact are my best recommendations for straight forward bouldering in the park without a bit of direction following and some adventure... Until the guide comes out anyway.

Awesome, thanks for the info. I'll be there Tuesday/Wednesday afternoon if anyone wants to join. Spotter and and an extra pad would be nice.

Aaron, some friends and I are going to be coming up to climb for Easter weekend and we just have a few questions. Since we're college students we can't afford much and would just like some more information on the "Budget Camping" as you call it haha. Where would you suggest parking inside the park for the easiest access to camping in the MRNA? About how much is it to park in the park overnight? What is the name of the trail to get to the "pony gate" you mention and about how far of a hike is it from parking?

Thanks a lot! Sorry its a lot of questions, I just can't find much information on the internet other than what you have here on this site. If I think of anything else I'll be sure to ask.

Thomas,
Hey man, glad to hear you guys are heading up this way! The "budget camping" is in the MRNRA and you get there by parking in the overnight lot (as far as I know it’s a 3 dollar fee to park in GHSP, but overnight parking may be a couple bucks more, I’m not 100% sure, but if it is an additional fee it shouldn’t be much). Park in the overnight lot and then hike up the hill via the "Rhododendron Gap Trail". Once at the top of the hill (obvious when you’re there I assure you) you will link onto the Appalachian trail toward Mount Rogers. Follow it to the "Pony Fence" (also very obvious as it’s the only fence you come to) and once you are on the other side (on MRNRA land) you can camp anywhere you want.

The hike there, depending on how much gear you have with you and how many ponies you decide to stop and admire, should take approximately 30min.

Hopefully I'll run into you guys out there (I drive a green Jeep Compass with a bunch of stickers on the roof wind faring thing if you want to session/say hello/ask where something is). Also just shoot me a message if you have any other questions, I’m always stoked to help out!

Just wondering when the guide book is coming out

The guidebook is projected to be published by the end of this summer. Hopefully in time for the good fall temps!