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Gravity Amp 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 1,284
Submitted By: moss1956 on Oct 7, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Clipping the 3rd bolt

Description 

The crux is clipping the bolt on the roof.


Location 

Sixth route from the left on the main wall.


Protection 

Bolts to shiny new chains, that are lower than the old rap hangers.



Photos of Gravity Amp Slideshow Add Photo
starts lower right ends at chains upper left
BETA PHOTO: starts lower right ends at chains upper left
Flavio with a heel hook clipping the anchors on Gravity Amp>
Flavio with a heel hook clipping the anchors on Gr...
Comments on Gravity Amp Add Comment
Show which comments
By Langlois
From: NYC
May 21, 2009

Clipping the 3rd bold on this climb is burly...

By Langlois
From: NYC
Nov 9, 2012

Or you could paint them if it bothers you that much. While I did not install them I am very appreciative of the people who are willing to donate their time and money to improve a local crag.

By Joe Stark
From: Iowa
Nov 10, 2012

Those chains are an eye sore in an access-sensitive area. Also the hooks on the ends are made from cast steel. Not safe or intended for supporting human life. Hoot nearly had all the bolts chopped a few years back. Putting up hardware store gear that could cause an accident is a surefire way to have access put on the chopping block.

We need to remember that the land managers (DNR, County Conservation) want these areas as 'natural' as possible. So hangers and anchors need to be camouflaged with paint to hide them from casual inspection.

They also want these areas to be safe. The last time access was threatened was caused by a hunting accident. They asked, "what other dangerous things are going on out there?"

If somebody were to get hurt due to fixed gear it would be a nail in the coffin for access.

Route work is a serious business and people shouldn't be just jumping in without the proper guidance. Whoever put the chains up better have a Menards card because I'll pull them off and replace them with quicklinks every time I see them. Won't cost me a dime.

By EldoFiend
From: WY
Nov 12, 2012

What chains? As of two weeks ago gravity amp had camoed bolts with fixed biners. I agree that the chains on some of the other routes are an eyesore, but those hooks are fine, you could literally hang a semi filled with inbred donkeys off one of those.

By Langlois
From: NYC
Nov 21, 2012

It's hard to argue against decreased impact and increased safety. However, I also felt the hooks were safe and lowered off of them many times.

I am glad to hear that the situation has been remedied. Route work is serious business and as I have stated I have no clue who put those in and what their level of expertise is. While I am sure you are competent Joe, I also have no idea who you are and if you have the "proper guidance." It is critical for every climber to inspect the gear they will be climbing on every time and judge the safety for themselves.

Glad to hear you have a free pipe line to some quicklinks though :) And a sincere thanks for all your work and upkeep at these crags.

By Joe Stark
From: Iowa
Nov 21, 2012

Right on. I'm just passionate about maintaining and even expanding access to Iowa's sport areas. The potential for further development within the state is huge. We just need to show that our community can maintain the areas we climb at with a low impact approach.
The chains really do cause a visual impact and the hooks (while strong) are not rated and shouldn't be used when quality, rated equipment can be used in its place.

By crimpandpeel
Dec 21, 2012

Hey Eldo- those hooks won't hold a truck, those things are junk and will be removed shortly- can't believe you think they are ok- unrated cast come-a-long hooks are what they are from, we have been working on fixing the crag so little changes will happen soon- everything will be checked and unrated gear is gone- this isn't the Rockies where if you die, no one cares- climbing is touchy here in Iowa and as Joe said we can expand but need to show we can manage the areas we have now by checking and painting the gear.
those chrome chains are so ghetto- I'll be adding all that chain to my pile, they won't be returned