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Hungover Wall - Right Side
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Boilermaker T 
Conscious Projection S 
Doug's Dilemma S 
Easy Crack T 
Gravitational Humiliation S 
Jim Beam Arete S 
Particle Acceleration S 
Pressure Drop  S 
Ripples in Time  TR 
Segments in Space S 
Straight, No Chaser T 
Suspended Animation S 
Under Pressure  S 

Gravitational Humiliation 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Troy Mayr & Kevin Mokracek, 1990
Page Views: 352
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 29, 2006

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Description 

Known also as "The Beachball Problem", this route is located two routes left of Boilermaker (5.10d) and immediately right of Barfly (5.11d).

Steep and bouldery moves along the first two bolts get one past a horizontal and onto a section of balancy face requiring high steps and delicate movement. Work your way up along a seam and then after clipping the third bolt (reachy for shorter people) work your way left towards the arete on large but sloping holds to hit the fourth bolt. The crux for many is moving off "the beachball", a huge but very sloping hold just past the last bolt.

A bit more rounded and sloping in nature than most climbs here, this route is perhaps best done in cooler weather to ensure sucess.


Protection 

4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap



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By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 3, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The crux on this probably used to be clipping the anchors. Fortunately, they have been moved to a more logical position.