|By SexPanther aka Kiedis|
Nov 2, 2011
This route was pretty controversial back in the day-after a badass ground-up effort by the Adventure Punks on neighboring Running Man, Mayer climbed that route and rap-bolted this one in beside it. The ground-up guys were not amused, and yanked the bolts. They were replaced, and several more Mayer routes were subsequently put up on this wall as well. These days, they're just looked at as some interesting face climbs, but the contrasting FA styles are interesting to consider while climbing these routes, in terms of bolt placements and spacing. Mayer put up a some great climbs in Red Rock, and routes like this represented the beginning of a sea change in FA tactics that also involved Mike Tupper, Leo Henson, and later Dan McQuade.
You won't catch me championing rappel tactics anytime soon, but some good routes (and some really, really bad ones) did result from a different set of preconceptions about how they should be put up. A little history worth knowing.