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Running Man Wall
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Graveyard Waltz 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Tupper
Season: fall thru spring
Page Views: 780
Submitted By: Gary Savage on Jan 5, 2007
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Description 

This route goes up just to the right of Running Man. Possibly a little harder than Running Man. No hand jam rest in the middle. A little tricky getting to the second bolt. If you come off here you could deck.


Location 

Just to the right of Running Man


Protection 

9 bolts, chain anchor



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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Nov 2, 2011

This route was pretty controversial back in the day-after a badass ground-up effort by the Adventure Punks on neighboring Running Man, Mayer climbed that route and rap-bolted this one in beside it. The ground-up guys were not amused, and yanked the bolts. They were replaced, and several more Mayer routes were subsequently put up on this wall as well. These days, they're just looked at as some interesting face climbs, but the contrasting FA styles are interesting to consider while climbing these routes, in terms of bolt placements and spacing. Mayer put up a some great climbs in Red Rock, and routes like this represented the beginning of a sea change in FA tactics that also involved Mike Tupper, Leo Henson, and later Dan McQuade.

You won't catch me championing rappel tactics anytime soon, but some good routes (and some really, really bad ones) did result from a different set of preconceptions about how they should be put up. A little history worth knowing.