Start low with your hands close together on good edges. Get some decent little feet and go into a righthand crimp straight up. Throw a right heel onto some small edges out right and go big to a lefthand sidepull. Bump that left hand twice along more good holds, and you get into a nice topout on large slopers. Pretty fun. The landing is absolutely horrible. There's a huge gap right behind you that you can get busted up on. I keep 2 pads folded and place them over the gap, side by side, so if you fall they totally brace you. It's kinda scary missing the big left throw and trusting the pads, but if you have new stiff crashpads they won't collapse into the gap. If I used my old floppy Franklin pad, I'd be in the E.R.
This route is right above the Alcove mantle problem. For those who don't know, The Alcove is at the very very left side of Cloud Shadow Wall. The Alcove mantle problem is the main chalked line there, and the Graveyard Shift is directly up and right of that.
3 pads. Two to brace the large gap and one on the slab boulder.
|By Chip Phillips|
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 2, 2010
In spite of the "hiding-in-plain-sight" nature of this line, this sounds new, Misha. Did it require significant cleaning and removal of chossy edges and flakes?
|By misha zavalov|
From: Boulder, Co.
Jan 2, 2010
A little bit. The first time I threw the right heel, I broke a nice edge and had to deal with finding a new one.