Graveyard Shift 5.10d PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Russ Raffa & Rich Ross - 1978 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 |
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Getting into the crux
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2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is one of the rightmost climbs on the MF wall. It begins at a short, thin, black RP crack.
P1: Climb this (somewhat scary), up to better gear (and harder climbing). Lower off a two-bolt anchor. 5.10d, 80'.
Added from a local:
Possibly the best route on the Mac wall, and that is saying something. A superb and rewarding lead that is hard to beat. While all the gear is good, it can be tricky to get; it can be slightly runout and the climbing is far from trivial. An excellent choice for those solid on hard 5.10
Start as for Star Action. Climb straight up thin face about 15 feet to a very small ledge. From here climb the bulging face at a flake that is sitting on the small ledge. There is good gear to be had but it's strenuous to get; this section can be a little pumpy. Move slightly left and up to a small broken ledge and good rest. Continue up to the base of a nice left facing corner, get in some gear, and prepare to work up the tricky face just to the left of the corner. Next up is the crux overlap - get in bomber gear, and pull the technical and challenging sequence, moving up very slightly left and then back right, then follow a nice flake to just below the finish overhang. Pull over and traverse left to the chains shared with Star Action.
Protection Standard Rack.
| Comments on Graveyard Shift |
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By david goldstein
Jan 27, 2007
| GS is an exhilirating climb to which this post does not do justice. I don't remember much about the lower part but the crux roof is still clear. Good gear is to be had at the start of the (small) roof, so you feel well protected pulling the crux. The exhilirating part is that the next gear is probably 20 feet past the gear at the start of the roof; I recall it as one of those situations where each move is easier than the previous, but a pump begins to set in and your mind starts playing tricks. |
By David Wilkerson
From: Rockville, MD
May 27, 2008
| I agree with the last post, this is a great climb. Definitely one of the coolest cruxes on the Mac Wall. |
By Greg Sudlow
From: PA
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.10d PG13
| Thrice the first comment above, it is a shame that original route post can’t be edited if they tell so little about the route. Nevertheless, this climb is one of the best in the Gunks with great variation, technical moves and stellar positioning. |
By JSH
Administrator
Jun 10, 2010
| I asked a local dude, Dave, to supplement the description, and added it in italics above ... hope it helps! |
By JohnWesely
From: Athens, GA
Aug 6, 2010
rating: 5.10d PG13
| A super climb. Not having the right sized cam at the crux made it pretty spicy. |
By David Stowe
Aug 7, 2010
| If you have tricams they go great at the crux |
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 3, 2010
| Great climb! I agree it is the best on the MF wall. Surprisingly technical at the crux. If you hang out too long figuring out the sequence the pump will sneak up on you. Not a handbag! |
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.10d PG13
| 5 red c3s/green aliens - a new record! |
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