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West Face
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Amazing Grace S 
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Grapefruit Dance S 
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Over the Rainbow T,S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Grapefruit Dance 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Will Gadd, 1988
Page Views: 4,137
Submitted By: Dan Russell on Jul 6, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: 12b.
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  • Description 

    Grapefruit Dance is a short, gymnastic, overhanging sport route, one of the few in Garden of the Gods. It is located on the northern end of the west face of North Gateway Rock, just uphill from the Blowouts bouldering area. To reach it, simply approach the bulging overhang on the north end of the west face. Walk along the cliff-line to the most overhanging sport, where you'll find the Blowouts, identifiable by lots of chalk next to a cave. Walk uphill maybe 100 feet. Grapefruit Dance is also covered in chalk, with 4 drilled pins, closely spaced, leading about 35 feet out the overhang to a 2 drilled pin and slings anchor just over the initial bulge.

    The climb: scramble awkwardly up the first few feet onto a ledge where you can reach the first bolt. With a small, left-hand crimp, reach out right (5.11) onto good holds. Climb huge crimps past two more bolts (5.10) to a juggy hueco next to the third bolt. Either dyno or get French, but snag the jug above you and clip the 4th bolt before bumping up on slopey crimps to clip the anchor.


    Protection 

    4 drilled pins to a 2 drilled pin anchor, bring 4 quickdraws.

    As of 4/11/12, the first pin pulled out, and it was replaced by S. Green within the week!



    Photos of Grapefruit Dance Slideshow Add Photo
    Logan crushing!
    Logan crushing!
    12b.
    12b.
    12b.
    BETA PHOTO: 12b.
    12b.
    12b.
    12b.
    12b.
    Grapefruit Dance. <br />
    Grapefruit Dance.
    Jeff Russell redpointing Grapefruit Dance (photo: Dan Russell)
    Jeff Russell redpointing Grapefruit Dance (photo: ...
    Logan crushing again.
    Logan crushing again.
    Comments on Grapefruit Dance Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 10, 2012
    By Anonymous Coward
    Feb 4, 2002

    Hey Dan and Jeff! This is Paul Kelly in NH. What's up? Jeff Mead told me to check out this site. This is good stuff when you've got nothing to do in study.... Later, guys.

    By Dan Russell
    Feb 12, 2002

    What's up, Paul? Been climbing at all?

    By Dan Russell
    Sep 13, 2002

    My brother Jeff repeated this route a couple weeks ago, and the crux bolt (actually a drilled pin) is missing. I'm not sure if it was chopped or pulled out or what, but it's not there. So, now if you biff the crux, you'll take quite a fall, but you shouldn't deck. He still did it, in any case....

    By Jim Redo
    Mar 16, 2003

    So... in which book is this route 12b?

    By Dan Russell
    Mar 17, 2003

    I've always seen it graded .12a or .12b, usually the latter, in several guides. The one I own is the Soft Touch III guide, which I believe gives it .12b.

    Why...do you think it's easier? or harder? Always seemed about on for me....

    By Jim Redo
    Mar 17, 2003

    I was just wondering if the route was 12b in any book really. I thought it was a 12a that packs a punch. Good little route worth doing.

    By Dan Russell
    Aug 23, 2004

    I don't think it broke, but I could be wrong. The jug changes all the time, becoming slopier or juggier depending on the wear.

    By Stewart M. Green
    Jun 8, 2005

    Grapefruit Dance now has new modern anchors...stainless steel bolts and descending rings. A special thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the hardware.

    By loc
    From: colorado springs co
    Jun 5, 2008

    The X is a bad place to do anything with. Someone needs to pop it off very soon.

    By Dan Swann
    Sep 25, 2008

    The X is ready to break but not needed...the problem is the bees that live in that flake that are the problem.

    By tradcragrat
    Nov 8, 2008

    A foothold broke at the crux. This may change the difficulty, or it may not depending on what sequence you use.

    By phil wortmann
    From: Colorado Springs, Co.
    Sep 5, 2009

    The X doesn't need to be popped off. If you don't want to use it, then don't.

    By Doug Stephens
    Mar 7, 2010

    F.Y.I.: first pin has pronounced movement. Falling here will eventually become interesting.

    By BabyAlex
    Jun 3, 2011

    Large undercling above first bolt has broken off, doesn't affect the grade, but the foothold that was there is now slightly more to the right. Still a little movement in what's left, but should be solid for a while.

    By gunter
    Apr 10, 2012

    The first pin is gone. Definitely a death route now...smarter pro in a situation like this seems acceptable. I climb in The Gods a lot and have trusted many of pins similar to the one missing, and although I respect the 1st style, in situations like this, safer gea. IMO is logical in order to enjoy the integrity of the climb.

    By Stewart M. Green
    Apr 19, 2012

    The first piton on Grapefruit Dance pulled out last week. We replaced it today with a glued-in angle piton. I looked at replacing it with a glue-in bolt, but the hole right now, with a bit of work, accepted another angle better.

    We also looked at the mechanics of belaying GD. Most belayers sit away from the wall, so when they catch someone falling on it, an outward force is exerted on that first piton which undoubtedly led to it loosening and eventually pulling out.

    Besides this replacement, we also replaced the first bolt on Big Sky on Grey Rock, which had also pulled out, a couple weeks ago.

    By Hanson Smith
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    May 10, 2012

    So we got on this route today and accidentally pulled off part of the jug for the second clip. We left the hold at the base if anyone feels the need to epoxy it back on. We both did the route afterward and it didn't feel any more difficult. The clip is pretty easy from the next hold anyway. Sorry.