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 ADVANCED
The Grotto
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
AC Devil Dog S 
Bandito T,TR 
Chicken Ranch Bingo S 
Flight Simulator S 
Go with the Flow T 
Granted T 
Gyro Gearloose T,TR 
Hole in the Wall T,TR 
Journey to Find the Sun S 
Men's Crisis Center T,S 
Moss Critique S 
Prime Directive S 
Rawhide T,TR 
Snake Bite T,TR 
Squealer T,S 
Table Manners T,TR 
Table Manners - Left T,TR 
Three Fingered Jack T 
To Pin or Not To Be T,S 

Granted 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,570
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Apr 19, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Open, with restrictions: private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This Crack sits just below the terraces on the left of the grotto, and uses a crack that gets quite large about 20 feet up. Sitting on the leftside of a column, this is just left of Hole in the Wall (5.10a), which sits on the front of the column.

Climb up the crack using fists, fingers, your forearms and whatever else you can use for hands while feet are available both in the crack and out. After the large section of crack, the rock splits, and climbing is easy. Move right once out of the crack system, where you will find the upper bolt of Hole in the Wall a convenient clip. Finish using the shared anchors above the bolts.

Protection 

Gear to 3 1/2", though you'll be fine if you leave things over 2" on the ground. 1 (or 2) bolts protect the route above the crack, and the 2 bolt anchor is shared with Hole in the Wall (5.10a).


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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 18, 2007

personally, I like this route a lot and would give it 3 stars out of 5. 2 out of 4 here. fun handcrack.
By fivefun
Apr 27, 2011

Really fun and easy jamming. Can stem on the left if you need to rest.
By Johnny Y
From: California
Mar 26, 2013

Was climbing this route a few months ago and we heard some high pitched chirping around the crack to the left, it didn't occur to me back then but now I am suspecting a bat may be living in there. Keep your ears open before placing those handjams!