Granite Beach Headwall  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet FA:  FFA Dan Levison 2005, equipped in 1994 Submitted By:  Dan Levison on Apr 15, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Southwest face of south formation ... photo by Bob...

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Description 

Granite Beach Headwall (aka Granite Beach P2) is the exposed, hanging headwall on the southwest face. To get there, ascend the high-quality first pitch of GB (12a), or rap in from the top to the hanging belay (triple-bolt anchor). Pull the small hang via powerful underclings. The unrepeated, airy face above is comprised of several thin, sustained face-climbing cruxes incorporating insecure micro-crimping on perfect granite. There is a relentless crux between bolts 3 and 4, and also just right of bolt 4, where you traverse hard right and power onto a sloping ramp. Move up the ramp for several feet, and ascend the face/crack system (11a/b - 3 bolts). The left-rising crack eventually leads to a small roof (fixed wire and pin) and then the anchor. Warning: this is an 80 foot pitch; a 60 meter rope is essential if you plan on lowering, or rapping back to the hanging belay.

Protection 

7 bolts, 1 pin, 2 fixed wires, triple bolt anchor; 80 feet