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South Formation
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Granite Beach Headwall 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
FA: FFA Dan Levison 2005, equipped in 1994
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: Dan Levison on Apr 15, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Southwest face of south formation ... photo by Bob...

Description 

Granite Beach Headwall (aka Granite Beach P2) is the exposed, hanging headwall on the southwest face. To get there, ascend the high-quality first pitch of GB (12a), or rap in from the top to the hanging belay (triple-bolt anchor). Pull the small hang via powerful underclings. The unrepeated, airy face above is comprised of several thin, sustained face-climbing cruxes incorporating insecure micro-crimping on perfect granite. There is a relentless crux between bolts 3 and 4, and also just right of bolt 4, where you traverse hard right and power onto a sloping ramp. Move up the ramp for several feet, and ascend the face/crack system (11a/b - 3 bolts). The left-rising crack eventually leads to a small roof (fixed wire and pin) and then the anchor. Warning: this is an 80 foot pitch; a 60 meter rope is essential if you plan on lowering, or rapping back to the hanging belay.


Protection 

7 bolts, 1 pin, 2 fixed wires, triple bolt anchor; 80 feet



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