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Routes in Potrillo Cliffs
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Ardeidae Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Belly Flop T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Belly Up T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Call of the Crane T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Car Camping with the Kids T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cave Route Center T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chuckwalla T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chuckwalla Right T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cindy's Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Desperate (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Trouble TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dream of White Gerbils S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fool on the Hill S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Grandstanding T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grandstanding Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gymnast T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heron's Fissure T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I Wish I Had Some Feet T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jane T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kor's Dog T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Cave Route T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pieces of Eight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Right Cave Route T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Route 1 TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Route 1.5 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Route 19 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Route 4 T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shaky Flake T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sleeper T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tarzan T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,609 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Wenker on Feb 18, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This is route #26 in the on-line guide.
Start up a broken crack system that is shared with Belly Up (a 5.7 that continues up straight). Traverse up and right to the top of a low pillar that gives access to a chimney behind another higher pillar to the right. A set of jammed flakes marks the top of the chimney. Once on top of the big pillar, up easy ground to the top.
Despite the easy rating, this actually isn't a great climb to TR with a total greenhorn/gym climber; there's something about the chimney that puts people off.....
Start up a broken crack system that is shared with Belly Up (a 5.7 that continues up straight). Traverse up and right to the top of a low pillar that gives access to a chimney behind another higher pillar to the right. A set of jammed flakes marks the top of the chimney. Once on top of the big pillar, up easy ground to the top.
Despite the easy rating, this actually isn't a great climb to TR with a total greenhorn/gym climber; there's something about the chimney that puts people off.....
Location
Middle of the south cliff. Basically shares the start with Belly Up. Beverley's guide indicates some harder alternate starts that can be climbed to the right.
Protection
Not far off the ground you can clip a fixed nut with a swaged wire that looks like it's been hammered on pretty hard.
Hanging a loose sling over the sharp flake at the top of the chimney is a shaky proposition at best, but it's really about the only pro going on in that wide crack, and this practice is noted as being the norm in the LAM on-line guide.
Easy enough to set a TR anchor at the top with gear.
Hanging a loose sling over the sharp flake at the top of the chimney is a shaky proposition at best, but it's really about the only pro going on in that wide crack, and this practice is noted as being the norm in the LAM on-line guide.
Easy enough to set a TR anchor at the top with gear.
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