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Grandson of Circuitous Shit
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Main Cliff
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Blue Toes T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bo Peep T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Bogus Dent T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Butterscotch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Circuitous Shit T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Easy Street T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Favela T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flying Friends T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Ghetto T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Gravy Train T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Grips of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Hard Times S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hooverville S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pobrecito T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Railroad Donnie TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shack, The S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shaky Flake & (V1 - Flake it again!) T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shitty Shit Shovel TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sleepwalk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Slumlord T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Justin Serpico |
| Page Views: | 903 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | J. Serpico on Oct 7, 2014 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Technically this is a V1 version of Son of Circuitous Shit.
P1: Begin as for Son of Circuitous Shit. Climb up the chimney to where it begins to be choked with trees. Exit right onto the face using the hand size horizontal crack (filled with snake skins). Zig zag your way up the face to the next horizontal crack (brown tricam protects well). Exit this crack and go right around the arête onto the upper slabs awkwardly straddling the arete using holds on both sides. Friction up past a horizontal covered by a flake and mantle up to the ridge. Walk the flat rock to an appropriate belay (trees or gear anchors).
P1: Begin as for Son of Circuitous Shit. Climb up the chimney to where it begins to be choked with trees. Exit right onto the face using the hand size horizontal crack (filled with snake skins). Zig zag your way up the face to the next horizontal crack (brown tricam protects well). Exit this crack and go right around the arête onto the upper slabs awkwardly straddling the arete using holds on both sides. Friction up past a horizontal covered by a flake and mantle up to the ridge. Walk the flat rock to an appropriate belay (trees or gear anchors).
Location
Same as Son of Circuitous Shit. 35ft uphill of the right end of the low roof system or 10ft left of the wide crack that is the start of Circuitous Shit.
Protection
A mix of gear will protect this climb well. Sizes from blue CCH Alien to a #2 Camalot with an emphasis on finger size gear. Tricams up to brown were helpful. I found protecting the second on this variation difficult. I believe the other routes traverse further right on the low angle slabs. Exiting directly up to the ridge leaves ground fall potential once the final cam is removed, although the leader is well protected.
Photos
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