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 ADVANCED
Gutenberger Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Easy Way Up, The T 
Got Gas? S 
Grandpappy T 
Gutenberger Edge S 
Gutenberger Wall Direct T 
Gutenberger's Wall T 
Lichen Us T 
Long Dong Arch T 
Right Up the Line T 
Sadam. Me? S 
Tanks for the Memories S 
Trout Fishing T,S 

Grandpappy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Branscomb, Steve Iverson, Ron Vardanega 1978
Page Views: 1,092
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Feb 12, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Grandpappy 5.9 R is on the left side of the dome.

Description 

A runout adventure on a pretty section of stone. Rumor has it that the old 1/4" bolts are to be replaced and some bolts added to make this a nicer route. There were only three bolts on the original 50m crux, so, yes, please do. From the "Grand Central Belay Station" (see Will Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA) proceed up and left across the central crack system to the second belay of Lichen Us. Keep proceeding up and left (5.5 or 5.6, no pro) to the belay at the base of a big bulge. This belay is located a little up and left of a small roof/flake system. Above is the stuff, runout 5.9 friction and some knobs. Two pitches lead to the top.

Location 

The second route left of the obvious central crack system (called Gutenberger Wall Direct). Goes up the center of the big triangular area of moss-less rock left of Lichen Us. Approach by crossing the river on slippery boulders below the central crack system. May be impossible in the Spring: use your head and don't die. Climb to the "Grand Central Belay Station" by any of the Iraqi Dihedral variations, the easiest being a nice crack that goes out right, then back left to the belay above the dihedral. Climb two pitches up and left to the base of the stuff.

Protection 

Bolts, light rack of thin to medium nuts/cams to get to "Grand Central Belay".


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