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Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face
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Aleister Crowley (aka Brew 102) 
Bryant Gumbel 
Grandpa Gander 
Granny Goose 
Jane Pauley 
Jon Crowley 
Left Route 
Middle Hand of Darkness 
Mother Goose 
Pump Up the Volume 
Right Route 
Stake Your Claim 
To Air Is Human 
Uncle Fester 
Whistling Sphincter 

Grandpa Gander 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Herb Laegar, Andy and Lotus Brown, 10/86
Page Views: 242
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Sep 2, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: "Grandpa Gander".
Photo by Blitzo.


This is the first route to the left of Granny Goose. Pull onto the face above an overlap and make thin moves up past three bolts. Some pro can be had past the last bolt to ease your mind. Easy descent down the north face (towards the Lost Horse Road).


3 bolts, pro to 3" for anchors

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By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 2, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Climbed this a couple of years ago. Thought it was fun.My hardest face climb in the monument.

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Sep 12, 2005

went up this thing via TR yesterday and had great difficulty at the start. 5.10c is being kind to this one!

By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Sep 13, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

locker,you got to use better technique.seriously though, I flashed it the first time I did it. couldn't get off the ground the second time.

By 72HW
Feb 19, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

TR ascent - took 2 slides near the bottom. Found the climb to be challenging to say the least, not to mention painful on the toes! Decent enough movement, decent enough climb. I would agree that 10c might be a little generous, however, as 10b4me says, it may be a technique issue on my part.

By Chris Owen
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 17, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Could feel myself sliding downwards on every move past the first two bolts - maybe I need to new rubber, or new hobby....