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Grandmother's Day
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Rabbit Ears Slabs
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Barb's Roof Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bucky Blue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bucky's Shoulder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bucky's Twin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cheap Trick T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Drew's Groove T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grandmother's Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Keyhole Ridge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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Mother's Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Murray's Warmup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 380 ft (115 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 851 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Marta Reece on Sep 14, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
Pitch 1, (5.7, 110 ft.). Start on Bucky Blue for about 20 feet, but stay on the slightly bulging almost-buttress instead of moving right. Go basically straight up toward two prominent vertical cracks in a green "boulder." There is a wide ledge just below them making for a good belay location. It will be level with a distinct tree to your left (the top of Pitch 1 of Mother's Day).
Pitch 2, (5.7, 120 ft. to a small tree). Go straight up from the belay. Continue up along intermittent cracks on an easy enough slabby ground toward the left end of a barrier ahead. This can be surmounted right in the corner, about 5.8, or avoided by going left onto a slab. Belay at a smallish tree not visible in the images left of the corner.
Pitch 3, (5.7, 150 ft). Go up the broken terrain hanging right toward the top of it but staying left of the large tree. Once level with the tree, start hanging left more and stay left of the next tree if you want to do the top slab. An easier version is to go to the right of the tree and scramble up from there. The route tops out at an entrance of a cave made by a boulder balanced on the ridgeline.
Pitch 2 alternative: (5.6, 150 ft) The route may be connected to Bucky Blue by going right from Pitch 1 belay. Continue up once an easy way opens and continue over an easy slab to the crack below the large dead tree on Bucky Blue where the Bucky Pitch 2 belay is located.
Location
Start the same as Bucky Blue. Stays left of Bucky Blue. The last pitch is shared with Mother's Day.
Protection
Standard double rack. There is one piton on Pitch 1, not a particularly useful one, and usually, there is tat on the tree to the left of Pitch 1 belay and at the tree making up Pitch 2 belay. These can be used for rappel purposes and a single 60m rope is sufficient in that case. Once the route is completed, scramble through the cave and then down the boulder pile making up the ridge toward the bolts of Bucky Blue. Use these to rappel to the ground. 70m rope, or two 60m ropes, are recommended for the first rappel on Bucky Blue.
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