Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Midnight Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Midnight S 
Caboose, The S 
Cage, The T 
Caged Bird of Pray T 
Cirque du Soleil S 
Crack a Smile S 
Deus Ex Machina S 
Dyno Mart S 
Engine, The T,S 
Flake Out S 
Geminae Cracks S 
Grande Finale S 
Hack a Drone S 
Hammer Down S 
Jet Stream T 
Karma Chameleon S 
Meltdown S 
Midnight Cowboy S 
Midnight Express S 
Pirate Radar S 
Rycessica T 
Stroke of Midnight, The S 
Union with Earth S 
Voila S 
Weather Report S 

Grande Finale 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA: Bob Horan and Chule Lee. FFA: Ned Harris and Matt Bebe
Page Views: 639
Submitted By: Peter Hunt on Jun 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Matt Bebe on Voila, the Grande Finale face ascends...

Description 

Carefully climb up to the ledge and clip the first and second bolts. Start right then make a long move left to a gaston and the third clip (12b/c). Go up past a jug and then to the right of the fourth bolt (12c) step back left to easier climbing (11) to finish. About twenty feet of good, hard climbing.

Location 

This is the second route from the right on the bottom of Midnight Rock, i.e., it is between Crack a Smile and Viola

Protection 

Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor. I would suggest stick clipping the third bolt or you could ledge out on the first hard move. With my sequence you need to go above and to the right of the fourth bolt before clipping—a hold broke making the direct sequence much harder.


Photos of Grande Finale Slideshow Add Photo
Grande Finale.
Grande Finale.

Comments on Grande Finale Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Hunt
Jun 16, 2006

I had too much for breakfast and broke four separate holds on this, two of them important. The climbing is better than that sounds, and there's less loose stuff now.
By Charles Cundiff
Jul 25, 2010

I don't know how many holds Peter broke, but I can't find any good way to start this route, other than pulling on the second draw to move into the gaston. Otherwise the route is great.
By Mark Rolofson
Feb 8, 2015

I have climbed at this crag many times over the past 15 years, but today was my first time on this route. Unlike its neighbor "Voila" to the right, "Grand Finale" is not perfectly bolted. It is impressively hard, but I feel it would be a much better route if the 2nd bolt, maybe 3rd bolt & 4th bolt were moved right. Peter is absolutely correct that you are wise to preclip the 3rd bolt. Moving the 2nd bolt right & maybe up as far as you can stretch would protect the hard moves off the ledge. Probably the 3rd bolt can stay where it is, but it'd be nice to clip the 4th bolt from the only jug in the hard moves. A few feet above the 4th bolt is a huge jug at the end of the hard climbing, so having the 4th bolt this high is not necessary. Moving the 4th bolt right & down seems like it would be better. I will attempt the climb again to rethink the 4th bolt, but the 2nd bolt should definitely be moved. The 5.11a finish is perfectly bolted.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!