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Grand Teton

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beyer East Face I 
Black Ice Couloir 
Crystal Right 
Direct Petzoldt Ridge 
East Face Direct 
East Ridge 
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) 
Gold Face 
Grand Traverse, The 
Lower Exum Ridge 
North Face Highlight Tour 
North Face Standard 
North Ridge 
Owen Spalding 
Pownall-Gilkey 
Underhill Ridge Original/Direct 
Upper Exum Ridge 
West Face of the Exum Ridge 
Wittich Crack 
Unsorted Routes:

Grand Teton 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,770'
Location: 43.74092, -110.80253 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 519,386
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Mar 6, 2006
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Route | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Rain
46° | 21°
Snow
32° | 15°
Clear
38° | 20°
Clear
41° | 18°
Clear
39° | 19°
Winter dawn, Grand Teton.

Description 

From moderate, sunny cruisers to huge mixed gullies and everything in between, the Grand Teton has it all. This iconic mountain is steeped in history.
Although trade classics like the Owen-Spalding and the Exum Ridge can be a cattle train at times, there are plenty of routes to keep everyone satisfied.


Getting There 

Most approaches will start from the Lupine Meadows trailhead and take the trail into Garnet Canyon, eventually reaching the Lower Saddle. Some routes utilize different approaches and will be noted in the proper route descriptions.


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',5],['5.8',7],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grand Teton:
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent)   WI2-3 Mod. Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, Grade II   
Owen Spalding   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1560'   
Upper Exum Ridge   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 4000'   
East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   
Direct Petzoldt Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
Lower Exum Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   
Wittich Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'   
Black Ice Couloir   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b AI3-4     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1600'   
North Face Standard   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 3000'   
Underhill Ridge Original/Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 800'   
The Grand Traverse   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 12000'   
North Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200'   
Pownall-Gilkey   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'   
Beyer East Face I   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000'   
Gold Face   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 565'   
Browse More Classics in Grand Teton

Featured Route For Grand Teton
Rob Springer on the saddle snowpatch at the top of the Underhill ridge.

Beyer East Face I 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton
Fun climbing and clean rock on a warm (in the lee of the prevailing winds with full sun until early afternoon), crowd-free and scenic part of the mountain characterize the technical part of this climb. Throw in a low hassle approach and a thousand feet of enjoyable but not gripping scrambling to the summit and you have a classic alpine experience. Ortenburger ranks this as one of the about 35 "highest quality, true classics" of the range.Note: the following pitch break out is slightly differen...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Grand Teton Slideshow Add Photo
What is this, Pagagonia?  Would you climb the Grand if you woke up at the Lower Saddle and looked up at this (add shrieking wind noise)?
What is this, Pagagonia? Would you climb the Gran...
Tetons at night...
Tetons at night...
Peaking thru the clouds. Copyright Kaidi Raney
Peaking thru the clouds. Copyright Kaidi Raney
The Grand in B&W from the Lower Saddle
The Grand in B&W from the Lower Saddle
Parapenter above Glencoe Col.
Parapenter above Glencoe Col.
Summit structure, Grand Teton
Summit structure, Grand Teton
Evening light on Grand Teton, Teewinot Mtn.
Evening light on Grand Teton, Teewinot Mtn.
The Shadow of the Grand and the Middle Teton as seen during the sunset from the lower saddle
The Shadow of the Grand and the Middle Teton as se...
North aspects of the Cathedral Group, with the Grand Teton towering above.
North aspects of the Cathedral Group, with the Gra...
Lower Saddle at sunset
Lower Saddle at sunset
The Grand Teton
The Grand Teton
Garnet Canyon and the Lower Saddle.
Garnet Canyon and the Lower Saddle.
The Tetons, the mighty wind catcher. Photo: Bob Horan.
The Tetons, the mighty wind catcher. Photo: Bob Ho...
The fixed rope up to the Lower Saddle.
BETA PHOTO: The fixed rope up to the Lower Saddle.
Nat on the Grand Teton, Upper Exum Ridge with the Middle Teton in the background.
Nat on the Grand Teton, Upper Exum Ridge with the ...
The Grand From Lupine Meadows Trail
The Grand From Lupine Meadows Trail
The grandest of them all!
The grandest of them all!
Chris Owen on the summit after climbing the Owen-Spalding Route.
Chris Owen on the summit after climbing the Owen-S...
Summer storm on the Grand! <br />...as seen from Climbers Ranch. <br />
Summer storm on the Grand!
...as seen from Climber...
Winter conditions on Grand Teton and Mt. Owen.
Winter conditions on Grand Teton and Mt. Owen.
The Grand and Middle from the Idaho side.
The Grand and Middle from the Idaho side.
Tetons from the road. July 20, 2008
Tetons from the road. July 20, 2008
Rappel
Rappel
Lower Saddle from moraine
BETA PHOTO: Lower Saddle from moraine
The Grand Teton, August 2011
The Grand Teton, August 2011
Looking down at the meadows bivy site in Garnet Canyon.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the meadows bivy site in Garnet Ca...
The Grand with Lower Saddle, and Moraine in view
The Grand with Lower Saddle, and Moraine in view
Grand Teton and Glacier Gulch.
Grand Teton and Glacier Gulch.
The southern side of the Grand, showcasing three classic ridges: The Exum, Petzodlt, and Underhill (from left to right). Also note the Black Dike, an approach landmark.
BETA PHOTO: The southern side of the Grand, showcasing three c...
Spalding Falls in Garnet Canyon
Spalding Falls in Garnet Canyon
The Grand from Blacktail Ponds
The Grand from Blacktail Ponds
Comments on Grand Teton Add Comment
Show which comments
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2013

Tons of beta pictures at this link for the OS and the Exum.

www.wyomingwhiskey.org/2013/01/grand-teton-climbing-route-ph>>>