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 ADVANCED
Grand Teton

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bean's Shining Wall of Storms  T 
Beyer East Face I T 
Black Ice Couloir T 
Collins/Hume T 
Crystal Right T 
Direct Petzoldt Ridge T 
East Face Direct T 
East Ridge T 
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) 
Gold Face T 
Golden Pillar, Direct North Face T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Lower Exum Ridge T 
North Face Highlight Tour T 
North Face Standard T 
North Ridge T 
Owen Spalding T 
Pownall-Gilkey T 
Underhill Ridge Original/Direct T 
Upper Exum Ridge T 
West Face of the Exum Ridge T 
Wittich Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Grand Teton  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,770'
Location: 43.74092, -110.80253 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 611,064
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Mar 6, 2006
Forecast:
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Description 

From moderate, sunny cruisers to huge mixed gullies and everything in between, the Grand Teton has it all. This iconic mountain is steeped in history.
Although trade classics like the Owen-Spalding and the Exum Ridge can be a cattle train at times, there are plenty of routes to keep everyone satisfied.

Getting There 

Most approaches will start from the Lupine Meadows trailhead and take the trail into Garnet Canyon, eventually reaching the Lower Saddle. Some routes utilize different approaches and will be noted in the proper route descriptions.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.9 miles from here

22 Total Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',5],['5.8',7],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grand Teton:
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent)   WI2-3 Mod. Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, Grade II   
Owen Spalding   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1560'   
Upper Exum Ridge   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 4000'   
Black Ice Couloir   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3-4     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1600'   
Direct Petzoldt Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   
Lower Exum Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   
Wittich Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'   
North Face Standard   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 3000'   
Underhill Ridge Original/Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 800'   
The Grand Traverse   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 12000'   
North Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200'   
Pownall-Gilkey   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'   
Beyer East Face I   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000'   
Gold Face   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 565'   
Browse More Classics in Grand Teton

Featured Route For Grand Teton
Morning sun on the Grand Teton's north side.  This photo shows the East Ridge, the North Face, the North Ridge, the Grandstand, and Gunsight Notch.  Taken from the Teton Glacier.

North Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton
A truly inspiring climb with classic appeal - the North Ridge is an adventurous route up the striking high angle corner that makes up the right hand skyline of the Grand when seen from Jackson Hole. At the time of its first ascent in 1931, Underhill and Fryxell's route was one of the most technically demanding in the country at 5.7 A0. The Chockstone Chimney (originally aided) went free on the second ascent of the route in 1936, which was made by Fritz Weissner (at 5.8). The North Ridge of th...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Grand Teton Slideshow Add Photo
What is this, Pagagonia?  Would you climb the Grand if you woke up at the Lower Saddle in August and looked up at this (add shrieking wind noise)?
What is this, Pagagonia? Would you climb the Gran...
Peaking thru the clouds. Copyright Kaidi Raney
Peaking thru the clouds. Copyright Kaidi Raney
Tetons at night...
Tetons at night...
The Grand in B&W from the Lower Saddle
The Grand in B&W from the Lower Saddle
Evening light on Grand Teton, Teewinot Mtn.
Evening light on Grand Teton, Teewinot Mtn.
Summit structure, Grand Teton
Summit structure, Grand Teton
Parapenter above Glencoe Col.
Parapenter above Glencoe Col.
The Shadow of the Grand and the Middle Teton as seen during the sunset from the lower saddle
The Shadow of the Grand and the Middle Teton as se...
Lower Saddle at sunset
Lower Saddle at sunset
The Grand Teton
The Grand Teton
North aspects of the Cathedral Group, with the Grand Teton towering above.
North aspects of the Cathedral Group, with the Gra...
Grand Teton S.W. Face. Bean's Shinning Wall of Storms V 5.12
Grand Teton S.W. Face. Bean's Shinning Wall of Sto...
location of the fixed line to get up to the lower saddle.  trail is in yellow; fixed line is in red.
BETA PHOTO: location of the fixed line to get up to the lower ...
aerial view of trail to lower saddle.
BETA PHOTO: aerial view of trail to lower saddle.
Grand Teton S.W. Face. Bean's Shinning Wall of Storms V 5.12
Grand Teton S.W. Face. Bean's Shinning Wall of Sto...
Garnet Canyon and the Lower Saddle.
Garnet Canyon and the Lower Saddle.
Grand Teton and Glacier Gulch.
Grand Teton and Glacier Gulch.
Tetons from the road. July 20, 2008
Tetons from the road. July 20, 2008
Nat on the Grand Teton, Upper Exum Ridge with the Middle Teton in the background.
Nat on the Grand Teton, Upper Exum Ridge with the ...
The Grand with Lower Saddle, and Moraine in view
The Grand with Lower Saddle, and Moraine in view
The Tetons, the mighty wind catcher. Photo: Bob Horan.
The Tetons, the mighty wind catcher. Photo: Bob Ho...
Winter conditions on Grand Teton and Mt. Owen.
Winter conditions on Grand Teton and Mt. Owen.
Rappel
Rappel
The grandest of them all!
The grandest of them all!

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Comments on Grand Teton Add Comment
Show which comments
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2013
Tons of beta pictures at this link for the OS and the Exum.

wyomingwhiskey.org/2013/01/gra...