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From moderate, sunny cruisers to huge mixed gullies and everything in between, the Grand Teton has it all. This iconic mountain is steeped in history.
Most approaches will start from the Lupine Meadows trailhead and take the trail into Garnet Canyon, eventually reaching the Lower Saddle. Some routes utilize different approaches and will be noted in the proper route descriptions.
22 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grand Teton:
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) WI2-3 Mod. Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine, Grade II
Owen Spalding 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1560'
Upper Exum Ridge 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 4000'
East Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Direct Petzoldt Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches
Wittich Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'
Lower Exum Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'
Black Ice Couloir 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3-4 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1600'
North Face Standard 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 3000'
Underhill Ridge Original/Direct 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 800'
The Grand Traverse 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 12000'
North Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200'
Pownall-Gilkey 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'
Beyer East Face I 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000'
Gold Face 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 565'
Featured Route For Grand Teton
Owen Spalding 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton
From the upper saddle (13,160'), rope up and belay from a large boulder near the north face. Continue around towards the north face to reach the "belly crawl", an obvious and well named feature. It is a ledge not more than 18" wide with an overhang above. The exposure here is very exciting. Continue traversing around the ledge about 15' to the double chimney (P1), the technical crux of the climb, about 5.4.Directly above this is the Owen Chimney (P2) which angles up to the right. The route from ...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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