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 ADVANCED
Grand Teton

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bean's Shining Wall of Storms  T 
Beyer East Face I T 
Black Ice Couloir T 
Collins/Hume T 
Crystal Right T 
Direct Petzoldt Ridge T 
East Face Direct T 
East Ridge T 
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) 
Gold Face T 
Golden Pillar, Direct North Face T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Lower Exum Ridge T 
North Face Highlight Tour T 
North Face Standard T 
North Ridge T 
Owen Spalding T 
Pownall-Gilkey T 
Underhill Ridge Original/Direct T 
Upper Exum Ridge T 
West Face of the Exum Ridge T 
Wittich Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Grand Teton  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,770'
Location: 43.74092, -110.80253 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 647,622
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Mar 6, 2006
Forecast:
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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Description 

From moderate, sunny cruisers to huge mixed gullies and everything in between, the Grand Teton has it all. This iconic mountain is steeped in history.
Although trade classics like the Owen-Spalding and the Exum Ridge can be a cattle train at times, there are plenty of routes to keep everyone satisfied.

Getting There 

Most approaches will start from the Lupine Meadows trailhead and take the trail into Garnet Canyon, eventually reaching the Lower Saddle. Some routes utilize different approaches and will be noted in the proper route descriptions.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.9 miles from here

22 Total Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',5],['5.8',7],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grand Teton:
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent)   WI2-3 Mod. Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, Grade II   
Owen Spalding   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1560'   
Upper Exum Ridge   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 4000'   
Black Ice Couloir   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3-4     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1600'   
Direct Petzoldt Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   
Lower Exum Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   
Wittich Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'   
North Face Standard   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 3000'   
Underhill Ridge Original/Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 800'   
The Grand Traverse   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 12000'   
North Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200'   
Pownall-Gilkey   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'   
Beyer East Face I   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000'   
Gold Face   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 565'   
Browse More Classics in Grand Teton

Featured Route For Grand Teton
The "V" pitch, high on the Grand Teton.

Upper Exum Ridge 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton
This is a fantastic route and is extremely popular, among guided and non-guided parties. The route is significantly longer than the Owen-Spalding, the rock is generally excellent and the views spectacular. This is also a good winter route as it melts off quickly. One problem is that it is difficult to escape off this route in case of bad weather.If you free solo this route it goes very quickly. Not only was the first ascent by Glenn Exum done in this manner, but the second ascent was made by...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Grand Teton Slideshow Add Photo
What is this, Pagagonia?  Would you climb the Gran...
What is this, Pagagonia? Would you climb the Gran...
Tetons at night...
Tetons at night...
Peaking thru the clouds. Copyright Kaidi Raney
Peaking thru the clouds. Copyright Kaidi Raney
The Grand in B&W from the Lower Saddle
The Grand in B&W from the Lower Saddle
Summit structure, Grand Teton
Summit structure, Grand Teton
Parapenter above Glencoe Col.
Parapenter above Glencoe Col.
Evening light on Grand Teton, Teewinot Mtn.
Evening light on Grand Teton, Teewinot Mtn.
The Shadow of the Grand and the Middle Teton as se...
The Shadow of the Grand and the Middle Teton as se...
The Grand Teton
The Grand Teton
North aspects of the Cathedral Group, with the Gra...
North aspects of the Cathedral Group, with the Gra...
Lower Saddle at sunset
Lower Saddle at sunset
aerial view of trail to lower saddle.
BETA PHOTO: aerial view of trail to lower saddle.
Grand Teton S.W. Face. Bean's Shinning Wall of Sto...
Grand Teton S.W. Face. Bean's Shinning Wall of Sto...
Grand Teton S.W. Face. Bean's Shinning Wall of Sto...
Grand Teton S.W. Face. Bean's Shinning Wall of Sto...
location of the fixed line to get up to the lower ...
BETA PHOTO: location of the fixed line to get up to the lower ...
The Grand with Lower Saddle, and Moraine in view
The Grand with Lower Saddle, and Moraine in view
Looking down at the meadows bivy site in Garnet Ca...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the meadows bivy site in Garnet Ca...
Lower Saddle from moraine
BETA PHOTO: Lower Saddle from moraine
Winter conditions on Grand Teton and Mt. Owen.
Winter conditions on Grand Teton and Mt. Owen.
The fixed rope up to the Lower Saddle.
BETA PHOTO: The fixed rope up to the Lower Saddle.
Grand Teton and Glacier Gulch.
Grand Teton and Glacier Gulch.
The southern side of the Grand, showcasing three c...
BETA PHOTO: The southern side of the Grand, showcasing three c...
Spalding Falls in Garnet Canyon
Spalding Falls in Garnet Canyon
The Tetons, the mighty wind catcher. Photo: Bob Ho...
The Tetons, the mighty wind catcher. Photo: Bob Ho...

Show All 38 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Grand Teton Add Comment
Show which comments
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2013
Tons of beta pictures at this link for the OS and the Exum.

wyomingwhiskey.org/2013/01/gra...
By JD Borgeson
Jan 7, 2015
don't click on this link above ^^^^ it just directs you to a search engine