Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Grand Teton recommendations
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Feb 21, 2013
Half Dome
I will be heading to Jackson, Wyoming this summer. I will only have about a day and a half to climb. I am interested in either climbing the Grand or finding a long multi pitch route in the 5.8-5.10 range to climb. The most likely scenario is that I will have from Friday mid-day to Saturday night to do something (as late as need be). I would prefer to hike in Friday, bivy and have all day Saturday to climb/summit/return to Jackson (rather than attempt a car to car on Saturday).

I'm up for tagging the summit, but I'd rather spend the majority of the time climbing and less in hiking. Of course it would be cool to do both. Prefer a route that is not utterly complex in route finding (especially the hiking part) due to time constraints.

Any recommendations on a quality route? Also if anyone is going to be there first week of June I'm looking for a partner. I have multi pitch, a bit of big wall, and lots of hiking/climbing experience. Onsight trad up to 5.10 and follow 5.11...have no problem french freeing crux sections above that if need be. Looking for a solid, safe partner. Dates would be June 7th-8th. Ideally I can find someone with a car to get us to/from Jackson where I will be staying before and after.

Thanks in advance.

FLAG
By flynn
Feb 21, 2013
That early in the year you could wind up wallowing in neck-deep snow. Other folks and locals (including Teton Mountaineering and climbing rangers in the Park) may have great suggestions if that's the case.

Assuming that's not the case, though, here are some thoughts. If you absolutely must summit, consider the Complete Exum on the Grand. If you just want to climb something incredibly beautiful, but don't need a summit fix, don't miss Irene's Arete. Neither are particularly difficult to find or follow; both are five-star quality on a scale of four; both are likely to be crowded, especially the Exum and most especially the upper half. Hell, it's the weekend; every route on the Grand is likely to have a queue. Get up early, be on your route as soon as it's light enough to see, be efficient a.k.a. fast, and pray for good weather! Oh, and have fun!

FLAG
By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Feb 21, 2013
Half Dome
I always forget how late it takes for summer to arrive there. I once drove up from Phoenix in May (where is was already over 100) only to be driven out of Yellowstone by a foot of fresh snow.

Well I suppose I should add to my request recommendations for alternate climbing options at lower elevations in the sun...? Trad up to 5.11 Sport up to 5.12

FLAG
By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 22, 2013
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.
I may very well be mistaken but some of the stuff in Death Canyon might be doable by early June. Also, maybe Rock Springs Buttress?

If not, there's decent sport climbing at Blacktail Butte, Rodeo Wall and the Hoback Shield.

FLAG
By lucander
From Stone Ridge, NY
Feb 22, 2013
Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Struttin.
Climb The Snaz. Hike in on night/day 1. Super easy walking (but long enough to notice), set up a camp and enjoy yourself. Climb the Snaz (and Caveat Emptor if you're ridiculous), return to camp, have a beer, swim/cliff jump @ Phelps Lake, and hike out. A great time out.

FLAG
By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Feb 22, 2013
lucander wrote:
Climb The Snaz. Hike in on night/day 1. Super easy walking (but long enough to notice), set up a camp and enjoy yourself. Climb the Snaz (and Caveat Emptor if you're ridiculous), return to camp, have a beer, swim/cliff jump @ Phelps Lake, and hike out. A great time out.


Ditto. The Snaz is a good long route, and has a much better climbing:hiking ratio than most anything else in the Tetons. The hike is barely over an hour and not terribly steep, which is practically roadside by Teton standards. No bivy required; the short hike makes the car-to-car easy. It is also at much lower in elevation, in Death Canyon, than the truly alpine routes in the area, so it should be in condition in early June.

This will even open up your Friday for climbing, since Saturday is a car-to-car. Guide's Route is a nice half day, or some mellow cragging at Blacktail Butte.

FLAG
By Tony Hawk
Feb 22, 2013
.

FLAG
By Tony Hawk
Feb 22, 2013
It sounds like you can camp up by Cathedral Buttress?

FLAG
 
By Brian in SLC
Feb 22, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Tony Hawk wrote:
It sounds like you can camp up by Cathedral Buttress?


Climbers don't. The routes there are day climbs, done car-to-car.

Easy walk from the Climber's Ranch.

FLAG
By Alan Nagel
Feb 22, 2013
On Cube Point, Tetons
Agreed no point camping there.
But supposing you mean Cathedral Rock as Ort/Jackson and Rossiter both call it: to walk there from the Ranch would be a long haul; it's as much as a half-hour by car what with negotiating the last mile of potholes and boulders. Yes, it's then a day-hike from the Death Canyon trailhead/White Grass ranger station.

FLAG
By Brian in SLC
Feb 28, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Alan Nagel wrote:
to walk there from the Ranch would be a long haul; it's as much as a half-hour by car what with negotiating the last mile of potholes and boulders. Yes, it's then a day-hike from the Death Canyon trailhead/White Grass ranger station.


Ahh...good catch. I was channelling Avalanche Canyon...

FLAG
By pete cutler
From Des Moines, IA
Feb 28, 2013
Caveat emptor rocks, easy car to car day. Guide wall is also really fun and a little easier if you want something more moderate.

FLAG
By Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Feb 28, 2013
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
I just caught that you're asking about the first week of June. The high elevation stuff will still be in alpine conditions (lots of snow), so depending on whether or not you want to deal with that, there are some good alternative solutions above.

Good Death Canyon options have been stated already. Another is Aerial Boundaries Shorter than the other routes, but just as quality.

The lower Garnet Canyon stuff should be all rock by then, with only a slightly longer approach time than the Snaz/Caveat or any of the Cascade Canyon (Guides Wall) stuff. Specifically, Irene's Arete and Open Book (on Mountain Project, but can't get the link to work for some reason).

Rock Springs Buttress would also be an awesome day of cragging for you. Low commitment, trad & sport options, plenty of multipitch, plus you can ride the tram to the top and descend down to the crag!

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.