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The Vestibule
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Grand Ol' Opry 

YDS: 5.14c French: 8c+ Ewbanks: 34 UIAA: XI- ZA: 35 British: E9 7b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b [details]
FA: Tommy Caldwell, 1998
Season: Summer
Page Views: 6,483
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 29, 2011

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Moving past the "razor crimp".

Description 

Perhaps the best single pitch of metamorphic face climbing in the country, Grand Ol' Opry ranks among the premier elite sport climbs in the United States. With flawless stone, outstanding position, and unforgetable movement on natural holds, this line has few rivals in the genre of thin face climbing. In addition to impeccable footwork, beastly crimping power, and leather fingertips, this route demands an uncommon amount of core and compression strength for a wall that is just over vertical. When you throw in the cryptic sequences, spicy crux, alpine weather, and thin air, it becomes easy to understand how this beautiful streaked wall has managed to repel so many accomplished climbers.

The route begins from a precarious ledge at the bottom of a narrow gorge on the east side of the Vestibule. Stem across the chasm, then crank out a difficult boulder problem to gain the wall. A set of vertical pods leads to a gnarly but sinker mono, followed by a series of shouldery gastons to reach a bomber finger lock and a quick shake. More strenuous gastons work along the diagonal rail up and right to a dubious rest at a sloping tower. The next crux climbs desperately past the "razor crimp" to reach an excellent rest just below the baffling redpoint crux. Execute a burly sequence along a shallow seam to reach an awful pinch at the lower tip of the "Africa Plate". As the runout grows, mad slaps up either side of the plate culminate in an all out dyno with a 30-foot whipper in the balance. From the break, pumpy, off-balance liebacks follow the left fissure of an exquisite magenta panel to one last shake before the tricky exit moves that guard the summit.


Location 

Immediately right of Third Millenium, this climbs the NW face of the Magical Mystery Tower. It shares the start with Dreamcatcher then heads straight up to the top of the formation.


Protection 

8 bolts to 2 BA.



Photos of Grand Ol' Opry Slideshow Add Photo
At the good rest below the Africa plate. <br /> <br /> <br />Photo by Ken Klein.
At the good rest below the Africa plate.


Photo b...
Sticking the crux dyno to the top of the Africa Plate. <br /> <br />Photo by Ken Klein.
Sticking the crux dyno to the top of the Africa Pl...
Mike M. working Grand Ol' Opry.
Mike M. working Grand Ol' Opry.
Mike M. works Grand Ol' Opry.
Mike M. works Grand Ol' Opry.
Polishing off the redoint crux of Grand Ol' Opry. <br /> <br />Photo by Ken Klein.
Polishing off the redoint crux of Grand Ol' Opry.
...
At the lower tip of the Africa plate. <br /> <br />Photo by Ken Klein.
At the lower tip of the Africa plate.

Photo by Ke...
You might be an OCD sport climber if... <br /> <br />Brushing snow off the top of the Magical Mystery Tower after an early Fall snowstorm.
You might be an OCD sport climber if...

Brushing ...
The pumpy final panel of Grand Ol' Opry.
The pumpy final panel of Grand Ol' Opry.
Gunning for the last shake, with the Diamond of Long's Peak looming in the background.
Gunning for the last shake, with the Diamond of Lo...
Comments on Grand Ol' Opry Add Comment
Show which comments
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 30, 2011

Nice one, Mark. Was Logan up there with you?

By David Rivers
Oct 30, 2011

Congratulations on the send!

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 31, 2011

Logan was at Day Care on Friday fortunately. It would have been a real bitch trying to bring him in through the snow.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 6, 2011

Cool to see this route on here. Is the number of ascents known? Tommy, Raether, Seigrist, Claasen... Maniac?

Originally given .14a by TC.

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 10, 2011

"Cool to see this route on here. Is the number of ascents known? Tommy, Raether, Seigrist, Claasen... Maniac?

Originally given .14a by TC."

Nick Duttle has sent it as well. I can't think of any others. Strong work, mono!

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Nov 25, 2011

And Jon Cardwell.

By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Jan 14, 2012
rating: 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b

Nice job, dude! One of THE BEST 5.14s in the country. No question.

By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 10, 2014

Paige Claassen made the first female ascent, and the fourth overall in 2010. She commented that the climb suited her strengths, being crimpy and not radically steep.