This is mostly a trad climbing area with some mixed routes. It is possible to set up top-ropes on some of the shorter climbs towards the ends of the cliff.
Routes range from 15m to 120m in length and from 5.2 to 5.12b in difficulty. Most routes have fixed rappel/belay bolted anchors. Rappelling is the best way to descend.
The rock is sharp and routes can be dirty due to lack of traffic. There are some loose blocks so wear a helmet.
Camping on platforms is possible at the top.
A guidebook is available at Mountain Equipment Coop:
Guide d'escalade du Grand Morne
Nico & Cie
La randonee (Sherbrooke, Quebec)
From Route 112 in Robertsonville, take Route 269 Sud at the traffic lights. Continue until you meet 8e Rang S, on which you turn left, towards Sacré-Coeur-de-Marie. Past the village you will see a sign for Le Grand Morne, keep right and continue on a dirt road until you see a sign and a parking lot on your left.
From the parking lot, you can take the small trail that starts behind the information kiosk to get to the left end of the cliff.
The trail to the right end is trickier to find: take the large gravel road for 5 to 10 minutes, then find a small path on your left indicated by a cairn following a ledge. If you don't get to over a gully on a wooden bridge, you're not on the trail! Be careful, the bridge is very slippery when wet.
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Grand Morne
La Surprenante 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a North America
: ... : Les voies de la vire
P1 - 5.5 ~50mStart left of the glue-ins and head up a dihedral until you reach a small roof, traverse right onto the arete protected by 2 bolts, keep going to a small ledge (possible belay on a cedar on the left).Head right to an opening and follow the depression upwards angling left.Look for a roof jutting out of the cliff with a tree covered ledge.Head up the corner or keep going up and traverse left to the ledge.2 glue-ins belay/rap.P2 - ~45mTraverse right under the roof to an opening and hea...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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