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 ADVANCED
Bill's Buttress
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Agnostic 
Breakfast of Champions 
Cheatah 
Coatimundi Crack 
Dark Corner, The 
Derek Smalls' Crack 
Dogleg 
Escalation 
Grand Inquisitor 
Ignominy 
Lysurgic Ledge 
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man 
Prophet's Honor 
PushMi, Pull-Yu 
Talk to the Animals 
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat 

Grand Inquisitor 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ????
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Sunny warm winter days
Page Views: 1,351
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Apr 21, 2008
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Kris Gorny action shot on the lead of Grand Inquis...

Description 

Route starts down at lowest point of Bill's Buttress at buttress prow between route "Agnostic" to the right and route "Coatimundi" to the left. The starting moves are unprotected and perhaps a bit hard for the grade and folks usually step into the climb via crack and mantle move from the right a bit. Climb thin crack from said ledge that has both slopey as well as angular footholds around it to a horizontal hold at point of base of loose block. Get good pro with long runners and launch into left traverse via good holds for both feet and hands into the crux of the route where one is forced into a pretty much singular answer crux move. Stay calm and place the obvious wired nut gear placement and tug for the jugs above. Stellar steep climbing through this section and no give away for the grade. Follow featured ledges and cracks on face above and climb up into steep groove/crack above and exit onto upper ledges and blocks. Stay climbing on the prow proper at top to help reduce rope drag.
This is a nice long varied route and make sure to use long long runners all along the route to help reduce rope drag.


Location 

Bill's Buttress between route "Agnostic" to the right and route "Coatimundi" to the left.


Protection 

All types and sorts but intense on small wires in first 30 feet or so. The first 15 feet are unprotected unless climber traverses in from right as mentioned above.



Photos of Grand Inquisitor Slideshow Add Photo
Jerry W. leads the Grand Inquisitor at Devil's Lake East Bluff on the first real warm and sunny weekend day of spring 08.  He has just pulled the crux, placed the necessary protection, has his hands on the jugs above and is ready to hoist up to the easier climbing above.
Jerry W. leads the Grand Inquisitor at Devil's Lak...
Mike Sohasky fights to beat out the 5.7 DL pump this climb delivers at the crux if the climber lingers.
Mike Sohasky fights to beat out the 5.7 DL pump th...
Kris Gorny leading Grand Inquisitor Bill's Buttress East Bluff Devil's Lake October 2012.
Kris Gorny leading Grand Inquisitor Bill's Buttres...
Comments on Grand Inquisitor Add Comment
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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 27, 2008

Is this climb really 175ft? I walked by it yesterday and it just doesnt seem that tall. Definitely over 100ft.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 27, 2008

Your right-- not that long... Maybe 140ft. Seems like a long way from very toe of buttress all the way up to belay at very top...
I wasn't thinking clearly enough when I typed that figure in. You are not able to hang a 200 ft. rope doubled as a TR setup off the very top I know... I will fix the post.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 30, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

There is no way that the glass like slab below the actual route is the start of the route. It's way too damn hard. I started in a nice crack to the right, traversed right, traversed left, made a big move into the crux and got pumped. Great 5.7!

By EB
From: Winona
Jul 27, 2012

Classic route for sure. For added value do the sweet little 5.10 splitter in the tower off the huge belay ledge about 120ft up. Its possible the best section of finger splitter crack in the park, although its on 30ft long max.... definitely worth it though.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 27, 2012

I have always really liked this little un-named 5.10 splitter in the little tower as well. It is a challenge for sure. The gear is straight forward straight in cam placements so it is an awesome little lead because of that. The hitch is there is very little for the feet so the climber has to really bare down on the parallel OK solid finger locks. Too bad this thing is so short. The very first time I lead this was as an extension of route "Escalation" and some rude person (or maybe just really desperate) had left a big ole stool pile at the base of it which made me not hesitate in firing it off in the quickest manner possible. I appreciated the easy and obvious cam placements.