Kris Gorny action shot on the lead of Grand Inquis...
Route starts down at lowest point of Bill's Buttress at buttress prow between route "Agnostic" to the right and route "Coatimundi" to the left. The starting moves are unprotected and perhaps a bit hard for the grade and folks usually step into the climb via crack and mantle move from the right a bit. Climb thin crack from said ledge that has both slopey as well as angular footholds around it to a horizontal hold at point of base of loose block. Get good pro with long runners and launch into left traverse via good holds for both feet and hands into the crux of the route where one is forced into a pretty much singular answer crux move. Stay calm and place the obvious wired nut gear placement and tug for the jugs above. Stellar steep climbing through this section and no give away for the grade. Follow featured ledges and cracks on face above and climb up into steep groove/crack above and exit onto upper ledges and blocks. Stay climbing on the prow proper at top to help reduce rope drag. This is a nice long varied route and make sure to use long long runners all along the route to help reduce rope drag.
Bill's Buttress between route "Agnostic" to the right and route "Coatimundi" to the left.
All types and sorts but intense on small wires in first 30 feet or so. The first 15 feet are unprotected unless climber traverses in from right as mentioned above.
Your right-- not that long... Maybe 140ft. Seems like a long way from very toe of buttress all the way up to belay at very top... I wasn't thinking clearly enough when I typed that figure in. You are not able to hang a 200 ft. rope doubled as a TR setup off the very top I know... I will fix the post.
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Jun 30, 2011 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
There is no way that the glass like slab below the actual route is the start of the route. It's way too damn hard. I started in a nice crack to the right, traversed right, traversed left, made a big move into the crux and got pumped. Great 5.7!
Classic route for sure. For added value do the sweet little 5.10 splitter in the tower off the huge belay ledge about 120ft up. Its possible the best section of finger splitter crack in the park, although its on 30ft long max.... definitely worth it though.
I have always really liked this little un-named 5.10 splitter in the little tower as well. It is a challenge for sure. The gear is straight forward straight in cam placements so it is an awesome little lead because of that. The hitch is there is very little for the feet so the climber has to really bare down on the parallel OK solid finger locks. Too bad this thing is so short. The very first time I lead this was as an extension of route "Escalation" and some rude person (or maybe just really desperate) had left a big ole stool pile at the base of it which made me not hesitate in firing it off in the quickest manner possible. I appreciated the easy and obvious cam placements.