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Stone Mountain South Face
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Grand Funk Railroad 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Mitchell, Will Fulton - 1971
Page Views: 4,966
Submitted By: nbrown on Nov 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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G-man following pitch 2 on a perfect fall day

Description 

This is one of the most historic and classic routes at Stone Mountain. It was the first route to follow a "line" of a different sort. Instead of following a crack, it follows a dike feature that runs somewhere in the range of 600'.

P-1 Climb the face on good edges and smears to a bowl at the first bolt. Move right across a long slab traverse to the "railroad" dikes, and follow these past another bolt to the belay. Optional 5.10R/X climbs straight up past the first bolt.

P-2 Roughly follow the dike feature past two bolts to a weird traverse through a water streak to a good ledge and belay.

P-3 Friction a short ways to gain the dike again, and sling horns for pro. Continue up to a bolted belay on a small ledge.

P-4-6 Continue up the dike to the top. The last belay is located atop some large flakes.

Note: It is very reasonable to simulclimb the upper half of this route, or just combine pitches.


Location 

At right end of the main area, on top of a little knoll. The start is marked by a water streak and tiny flared crack/seams.


Protection 

Light rack



Photos of Grand Funk Railroad Slideshow Add Photo
1st pitch of Grand Funk Railroad.
1st pitch of Grand Funk Railroad.
Richard leads pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Richard leads pitch 2
Getting ready to follow the second pitch. Great features on the slab!
Getting ready to follow the second pitch. Great fe...
A pair of climbers finish P4 of Grand Funk Railroad, viewed from the Oasis.
A pair of climbers finish P4 of Grand Funk Railroa...
Diff Ritchie and the great Will Nealy of early white water rafting maps on Grand Funk
Diff Ritchie and the great Will Nealy of early whi...
Tasty ledge
Tasty ledge
Leading the 3rd pitch
Leading the 3rd pitch
Diff Ritchie and Will Nealy on GF
Diff Ritchie and Will Nealy on GF
Comments on Grand Funk Railroad Add Comment
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By mbuntaine
From: Durham, NC
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

By light rack, it really means light rack. We ended up taking a bunch of gear that we never used for this climb. No gear placements on P1, P2, P3 (other than slung horns), P6. I think we got in one .4 on P4 and one #1 of P5. It's really not worth hauling a light rack -- maybe a couple of small cams at most. There were a couple of tri-cam pockets on the upper pitches, but of course we left these on the ground and substituted a bunch of useless nuts.

Careful on P3, there are some LARGE, loose flakes. Wouldn't want to send a 100-pound razor sharp flake down on your belayer.

The P1 traverse is pretty spicy, so make sure your belayer picks their path into the woods for a running belay.

By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Oct 18, 2011

Choo Choo, its Grand Funk Railroad calling your name!!! Beautiful feature trends left across a huge swath of the cliff face so you get a taste of a lot of different terrain. Great sticky rubber slabbing, some vertical featured climbing as well as some killer water groove climbing.Pretty much bring draws, slings (for some gnarly chicken heads) and a couple small cams and tricams for the loftier pitches, keep it minimalistic though it doesn't take much.

Don't forget to bring tons of water on this climb and perhaps a snack or two because this route is a drawn out affair.