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Start on the Alcoa ledge, 10 feet left of Orangeaid crack. Climb up shallow right facing corner and crack system. Trend left to exit left of the summit (shuts).
Barnes calls this 9+. I think this is one of those old school routes that just hasn't been done enough to up the grade. It is all of 10b, harder than castor/pollux and equivalent to orangeaid.
10 feet left of Orangeaid, on the Alcoa Ledge.
Sep 6, 2012
I seconded this route years ago, when it was rated 5.9. It's damn hard, although it does protect well. The HARDEST 9 I've ever climbed except for Conans Gonads at Lumpy Ridge in Colorado. But, maybe I was just spent from the long hike into Conans. If you're solid at the grade, go for it!