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Grama and the Green Suede Shoes 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown, 1995
Page Views: 3,274
Submitted By: jmeizis on Apr 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Standing at the anchors to the right of the wide c...

Description 

Climb the obvious wide crack to the left of Lacto Mangulation. It's lower angle but wide which can make it akward. There are two anchor options if bringing up a second, either traverse to the chain anchors (climbers right) or run it out another fifty feet to a boulder that can be slung (couldn't find anything else).

Location 

Part of the school room area, left of Lacto Mangulation. Find the low angle wide crack. Across the street from a "Parking" sign. Walk off to the climbers left avoiding kicking down rocks on the unsuspecting passerby. It's

Protection 

Doubles of #3-5, no need for anything small.


Photos of Grama and the Green Suede Shoes Slideshow Add Photo
Grama and the Green Suede Shoes ascends the low-an...
Grama and the Green Suede Shoes ascends the low-an...
Getting ready to sink a cam to clip in direct afte...
Getting ready to sink a cam to clip in direct afte...
Working up the crack
Working up the crack

Comments on Grama and the Green Suede Shoes Add Comment
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By transattic
From: Los Angeles, CA
May 23, 2013

Off-width crack with fun-filled mantels, crimps, fist jams, armbars, and stems.

This was a challenging and risky climb without Camalot #4-5's, BUT it is absolutely possible.

So you have an idea of how it was possible, I was able to protect the route using #1-3 Camalots, #10-12 stoppers, draws, and double-length runners. The runners came in handy when I had to set pros deep within the narrow cracks within the obvious humongo crack. I gotta remind you that if you had #4-5's you wouldn't need to set your pro that deep in.

The first pro was set about 15 ft up. A minor crux before reaching second pro placement. Then a fearful crux with 20 ft of unprotected off-width. Calmly securing myself and moving on, the rest was easy. When I had a clear sight of the double bolt anchor (used for Unknown Slab or Slab #1) and was near the top, I was able to drop a the last cam. As I made my way to diagonally towards the anchor across the face, I could squeeze in a small stopper right around the lip.

Assuming you only got small pro, you could add med-lg TCUs to make your life easier.

Given this was an improvised climb, it was real fun and scary at the same time. Highly recommend larger cams. Definitely worth revisiting!