Grama and the Green Suede Shoes 5.7+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Unknown, 1995 |
| Submitted By: | jmeizis on Apr 11, 2009 |
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Steve Thomas leading Grama.
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Description Climb the obvious wide crack to the left of Lacto Mangulation. It's lower angle but wide which can make it akward. There are two anchor options if bringing up a second, either traverse to the chain anchors (climbers right) or run it out another fifty feet to a boulder that can be slung (couldn't find anything else).
Location Part of the school room area, left of Lacto Mangulation. Find the low angle wide crack. Across the street from a "Parking" sign. Walk off to the climbers left avoiding kicking down rocks on the unsuspecting passerby. It's
Protection Doubles of #3-5, no need for anything small.
Grama and the Green Suede Shoes ascends the low-an...
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| Comments on Grama and the Green Suede Shoes |
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By transattic From: Los Angeles, CA 3 days ago
| Off-width crack with fun-filled mantels, crimps, fist jams, armbars, and stems. This was a challenging and risky climb without Camalot #4-5's, BUT it is absolutely possible. So you have an idea of how it was possible, I was able to protect the route using #1-3 Camalots, #10-12 stoppers, draws, and double-length runners. The runners came in handy when I had to set pros deep within the narrow cracks within the obvious humongo crack. I gotta remind you that if you had #4-5's you wouldn't need to set your pro that deep in. The first pro was set 15-20ft up. A crux before reaching second pro placement. Then a few more was placed. When I had a clear sight of the double bolt anchor (used for Unknown Slab or Slab #1) and near the top, I was able to drop a stopper into the crack. Then another one on the face on the way to the anchor. Assuming you only got small pro, you could add med-lg TCUs to make your life easier. Given this was an improvised climb, it was real fun and scary at the same time. Definitely worth revisiting! |
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