Grama and the Green Suede Shoes
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Steve Thomas leading Grama.
Climb the obvious wide crack to the left of Lacto Mangulation. It's lower angle but wide which can make it akward. There are two anchor options if bringing up a second, either traverse to the chain anchors (climbers right) or run it out another fifty feet to a boulder that can be slung (couldn't find anything else).
Part of the school room area, left of Lacto Mangulation. Find the low angle wide crack. Across the street from a "Parking" sign. Walk off to the climbers left avoiding kicking down rocks on the unsuspecting passerby. It's
Doubles of #3-5, no need for anything small.
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Grama and the Green Suede Shoes ascends the low-an...
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From: Los Angeles, CA
3 days ago
Off-width crack with fun-filled mantels, crimps, fist jams, armbars, and stems.
This was a challenging and risky climb without Camalot #4-5's, BUT it is absolutely possible.
So you have an idea of how it was possible, I was able to protect the route using #1-3 Camalots, #10-12 stoppers, draws, and double-length runners. The runners came in handy when I had to set pros deep within the narrow cracks within the obvious humongo crack. I gotta remind you that if you had #4-5's you wouldn't need to set your pro that deep in.
The first pro was set 15-20ft up. A crux before reaching second pro placement. Then a few more was placed. When I had a clear sight of the double bolt anchor (used for Unknown Slab or Slab #1) and near the top, I was able to drop a stopper into the crack. Then another one on the face on the way to the anchor.
Assuming you only got small pro, you could add med-lg TCUs to make your life easier.
Given this was an improvised climb, it was real fun and scary at the same time. Definitely worth revisiting!