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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bard & Locke - 1976
Page Views: 5,518
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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belay knobs at end of traverse pitch

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is the obvious finish to OZ, but the FA team didn't climb it until a year later. Some have said that the rock is sketchy on this climb, but overall it is quite good and this shouldn't scare anyone away. The climbing on Gram is physical whereas the climbing on OZ is more technical -- a nice contrast and finish to the route.

After finishing the third pitch of OZ, continue as follows:

P4: Climb up off the belay through some very powerful laybacks and underclings to a stance. The climbing eases here until a bolted belay is reached below some hanging blocks. 5.10d.

P5: Runner your gear very well and still expect to deal with rope drag. Continue traversing under the roof with a few cruxy downclimbing sections of 5.10c or so. One can belay off of bad gear or at an uncomfortable stance, but it is perhaps better to turn the roof at it's end and continue to the top. Keep in mind this involves climbing a long passage of 5.5 knobs without much gear. An awesome, exposed conclusion to the climb. 5.10c.


Standard rack. Nice to have a #3 Camalot for the start.

Photos of Gram Slideshow Add Photo
Wyatt finds an "OK" hand jam on the firs...
Wyatt finds an "OK" hand jam on the firs...
A belay at the end of the G.T. roof.
A belay at the end of the G.T. roof.
Mayan on the Gram traverse.
Mayan on the Gram traverse.
Starting the second traverse pitch
Starting the second traverse pitch
The Gram
The Gram
Dave Goldstein on the Gram Traverse
Dave Goldstein on the Gram Traverse
toward the end of the traverse
toward the end of the traverse
Wyatt following the second traverse pitch
Wyatt following the second traverse pitch

Comments on Gram Add Comment
Show which comments
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Jul 1, 2010

This climb is harder for the follower. The leader places gear before the hard parts and does them well protected. The follower has to clean the gear and then do the harder parts looking at a nice ol' swing.
By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Weed
Aug 1, 2010

The death blocks above the belay are pretty scary
By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
Aug 6, 2010

P1. 3 inch was handy, used two. After the vertical crack above your head its only a couple moves to a good spot so just keep truckin! Belay is interesting since only one draw wants to load if the follower falls, so maybe put two on the right hanger. As well as one on the left. Solid climbing on good rock.

(rocks above anchor are freaky but seem ok. Only freaky because I watched literally a gigantic chunk come off above the Good book at curry village. It happened out of no where and so looking at this block kinda sketched me out but it was stuck on there tough.

P2. Climbing varies into some good face technique as well as crack. Two 10C areas that are delicate climbing.

P3. Finish up giant knobs to the nice ledge. There is a nice horizontal crack at the top to make a anchor with cams quickly and get the person who is ready to get out of that roof up there.

Consider finishing on Hobbit Book. Its a walk in the park after what you just did and the view is amazing at the summit.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Sep 27, 2010

Crux is above last OZ anchor (start of Gram). Although we came across a few loose blocks, most of the rock is solid and protects safely. Try to move fast before the pump catches up. Good rests between mostly 5.10 moves.

We did the traverse in two horizontal pitches and built a below at the end of the traverse for the final short 5.5 pitch to the top. Traverse can easily be done in one pitch though.
By Dan Carter
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jun 13, 2012

I think Gram to OZ is the best climb I've ever done. Seriously this thing has it all. The roof was so unique and spooky. I agree that following is a little harder or at least unnerving than leading. The first roof pitch is pretty physical with undercling laybacks and jams with thin feet. One or two #4 cams would be nice to protect the two small overhangs one pulls around. I grabbed one flake that felt hollow and quickly move off it. Overall the rock was good and gear plentiful. The second roof pitch also takes good gear but is more balancy and has good rests. One can build a comfortable and safe gear belay about 10 feet from the end of the roof. This makes the last knob pitch go smoothly. If you go up OZ one must do the Gram traverse.
By CrimperE6
From: ca
Oct 18, 2012

hideous rope drag to continue to the top. This route really needs a rap station at the end of the traverse on the ledges out right. To belay off the knobs is just bullshit as they are tiny. Then could rap in 2 pitches to the floor and not have to do the shitty 20min walk off.

The second pitch on oz, second bolt is stupidly high. I think a block has fallen off, nails to make the clip
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Oct 19, 2012

Totally weaksauce suggestion. Sounds like you need to work on your all around climbing and protection skills. I have climbed that route probably more than any other in the Meadows and never had unmanageable drag finishing the Gram. There's good gear (small stopper if I remember right) to be had before pulling the miniroof at the end of the traverse if you actually look for it. And don't forget to put a long sling on it, genius!
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