The Gram Traverse
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 122 votes
Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
FA: | Bard & Locke - 1976 |
Page Views: | 13,682 total · 64/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is the obvious finish to OZ, but the FA team didn't climb it until a year later. Some have said that the rock is sketchy on this climb, but overall it is quite good and this shouldn't scare anyone away. The climbing on Gram is physical whereas the climbing on OZ is more technical -- a nice contrast and finish to the route.
After finishing the third pitch of OZ, continue as follows:
P4: Climb up off the belay through some very powerful laybacks and underclings to a stance. The climbing eases here until a bolted belay is reached below some hanging blocks. 5.10d.
P5: Runner your gear very well and still expect to deal with rope drag. Continue traversing under the roof with a few cruxy downclimbing sections of 5.10c or so. One can belay off of bad gear or at an uncomfortable stance, but it is perhaps better to turn the roof at it's end and continue to the top. Keep in mind this involves climbing a long passage of 5.5 knobs without much gear. An awesome, exposed conclusion to the climb. 5.10c.
After finishing the third pitch of OZ, continue as follows:
P4: Climb up off the belay through some very powerful laybacks and underclings to a stance. The climbing eases here until a bolted belay is reached below some hanging blocks. 5.10d.
P5: Runner your gear very well and still expect to deal with rope drag. Continue traversing under the roof with a few cruxy downclimbing sections of 5.10c or so. One can belay off of bad gear or at an uncomfortable stance, but it is perhaps better to turn the roof at it's end and continue to the top. Keep in mind this involves climbing a long passage of 5.5 knobs without much gear. An awesome, exposed conclusion to the climb. 5.10c.
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