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Graischer Bleisteinwände

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Graischer Bleisteinwände 


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Location: 49.7136, 11.3772 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 260
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jun 13, 2011
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Description 

The name of the wall translated into English is Graischer (the name of the town that it's in) Lead Stone Walls. I'm not really sure where they got the name from, unless they mined lead from them a long time ago, or maybe just detected that there was lead in it. Anyway, the walls are 15m (45ft) tall at the tallest, so you don't need to bring a 70m rope. There are a lot of little sectors here that offer up some nice pocketed routes. The routes are typically vertical, with some small sections of overhang or slab.


Getting There 

From Erlangen, drive towards Gräfenberg. Continue in the direction of Hiltpoltstein and continue driving through that and right past the Hexenküche. Continue on the main road as it passes by Almos and through Leupoldstein. Head in the direction of Weidenhüll once you get to Leupoldstein. Once you get to the town of Weidenhüll, watch for a sign on the left pointing to Graisch. Take that left. Continue into Graisch, and 100m after the sign for Graisch take a right onto the dirt road between two cropfields. Drive 90m and park somewhere near the intersection of the dirt road that you're on and the one that goes off to the left. Get out of the car and walk down the road that goes to the left. After about 140m you'll get to a path on the right that heads up to the rock. You should be able to see them now through the trees. The first formation you'll get to has Eibenweg and Ex und Hopp.


Climbing Season


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Graischer Bleisteinwände

Koung 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Europe : Germany : ... : Graischer Bleisteinwände
Climb up easy rock to the first bolt. Balance up to the second bolt. Make tricky moves to the third bolt (crux). Climb the crack and some face holds to the fourth bolt and take a rest (if you didn't already at the third bolt) and fire through the roof. Good holds are off to the left and a heel hook and mantel were my tactics for negotiating this roof. Easy climbing leads to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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