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Locomotion Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Grain Dance 
Gunks West 
Hhecht 
Jump Back Loretta 
Jumping Jehosephat 
Leaping Leaner 
Lumping Fat Jennie 
Slip and Slide 
Snnfchtt 

Grain Dance 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, 1987
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 23, 2002
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View of Locomotion from the north on the hiking lo...

Description 

Follow the directions to reach Locomotion Rock and settle into the niche on its west side. At the far north end of the rock there are two offset hand cracks that go from near the ground, up and left to the left hand side of the top of the rock. Grain Dance is a TR problem between Jumping Jehosephat to the left, and Leaping Leana to the right.

Follow a rounded and slightly offset crack/seam up and left to a blank section in the face. Friction up through the crux to reach a second system, just up and right of the first. The movement is fun and will likely increase your trust in J-tree friction.

However, if you go by the 5.10b rating, it may leave you depressed, discouraged, and sandbagged. I felt that the route should have been rated 5.10d, as it was harder than about a dozen 5.10c's that I've lead at J-tree.


Protection 

TR from anchors above Leaping Leana, the left-leaning crack to the right.



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"Grain Dance". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Grain Dance".
Photo by Blitzo.
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By Bo Johnston
Mar 13, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I agree with Tony. This is no 10b. In fact, I'd say 11a considering the work I had to put into it. Anyhow, it's a great bit of rock to learn hard climbing on! The first 15 feet are good 10b and the middle isn't so bad but when the crack turns to an evil seem the heat turns up.

By Drederek
Apr 5, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I didn't think this was sandbagged much, as I've led similar routes in Leavenworth and Squamish that were much longer and rated 10c. I figured that 10b was within reason for JT, especially after doing LL at 5.6

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Apr 6, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

this is a fun face route! I (like most people) TR'ed it off the leaping leana anchors. A lead on this would be R for sure! As well as having the gear plug some holds.

Gradewise, I'd say it's definitely harder than .10b. The baseline I'd use there is Run for Your Life. Probably .10c josh face, maybe .10d, and likely .11a at a lot of areas...

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Nov 24, 2008

Caughtinside: "Probably .10c josh face, maybe .10d, and likely .11a at a lot of areas..."

So... 10b then?