|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||Louie Anderson, 2004|
|Submitted By:||Steve Shiflett on Jun 21, 2011|
|Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Graffiti Wisdom||Add Comment|
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From: San Diego, CA
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Got on it for the first time yesterday. Was looking for a new 12c proj after finishing up "Hanging By a Thread" in just 3 tries.
This route is of excellent quality. If it was in the roof area it would be a classic and much cleaner. As is, its not loose but has a lot of dirt on it and the holds needed a good brushing.
The crux move is definitely harder than "Hanging By a Thread". There are probably more easy sections on this climb (its less sustained), but the climbing at the top is tenuous and a bit heady. Would not want to take a fall trying to make the moves to clip the anchor, as you'd fall out of the corner on an angle.
FYI - I noticed that the big jug at the top of the arete climbing, just above the last bolt was flexing a lot. On the lower-off, I pried it loose without much effort and trundled it. The climbing might be a little harder now since the good left foot you use to clip the anchors is gone...sorry.