Climb up to a low roof which starts the cruxy section. The 12b/c crux is moving past the 4th bolt and clipping the 5th. The climbing eases until 2 bolts below the anchors where a last push of power and sequence is required.
Route is right of Tagger and left of Burly Boogie
14 bolts to open shuts
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Got on it for the first time yesterday. Was looking for a new 12c proj after finishing up "Hanging By a Thread" in just 3 tries.
This route is of excellent quality. If it was in the roof area it would be a classic and much cleaner. As is, its not loose but has a lot of dirt on it and the holds needed a good brushing.
The crux move is definitely harder than "Hanging By a Thread". There are probably more easy sections on this climb (its less sustained), but the climbing at the top is tenuous and a bit heady. Would not want to take a fall trying to make the moves to clip the anchor, as you'd fall out of the corner on an angle.
FYI - I noticed that the big jug at the top of the arete climbing, just above the last bolt was flexing a lot. On the lower-off, I pried it loose without much effort and trundled it. The climbing might be a little harder now since the good left foot you use to clip the anchors is gone...sorry.