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Graffiti Wisdom 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Season: all
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Steve Shiflett on Jun 21, 2011
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Description 

Climb up to a low roof which starts the cruxy section. The 12b/c crux is moving past the 4th bolt and clipping the 5th. The climbing eases until 2 bolts below the anchors where a last push of power and sequence is required.


Location 

Route is right of Tagger and left of Burly Boogie


Protection 

14 bolts to open shuts



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By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Got on it for the first time yesterday. Was looking for a new 12c proj after finishing up "Hanging By a Thread" in just 3 tries.

This route is of excellent quality. If it was in the roof area it would be a classic and much cleaner. As is, its not loose but has a lot of dirt on it and the holds needed a good brushing.

The crux move is definitely harder than "Hanging By a Thread". There are probably more easy sections on this climb (its less sustained), but the climbing at the top is tenuous and a bit heady. Would not want to take a fall trying to make the moves to clip the anchor, as you'd fall out of the corner on an angle.

FYI - I noticed that the big jug at the top of the arete climbing, just above the last bolt was flexing a lot. On the lower-off, I pried it loose without much effort and trundled it. The climbing might be a little harder now since the good left foot you use to clip the anchors is gone...sorry.