Ascend 15ft of easy terrain to a bolt on the right of an obvious roof. Burl through the roof and pull onto the arete (crux). After another tough move getting onto the face, easier ground follows above. Continue up and right to one last move below the anchor.
Start 10ft right of Stepchild in an alcove.
By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fixed draws on the first 3 bolts will probably be a nice addition, with a 8" chain on the second one. Getting to the anchor when there's dirt/debris and moist lichen on the shelf is fun...