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{10} Mordor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angle of the Dangle T,S 
Crumbling, The S 
Dark Lord S 
Getting Your Kicks S 
Grace S 
Hellboy S 
Humbling, The S 
Meth Rage T 
Mrs. Norris S 
Route 66 S 
Slack Face S 
Step Child S 
Tofutti Cutie S 


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Shane Polizzano, Dave Sowerby, Tymun Abbott
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,657
Submitted By: orclimber on Feb 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Mercifully pulling through the crux on the FA. P...


Ascend 15ft of easy terrain to a bolt on the right of an obvious roof. Burl through the roof and pull onto the arete (crux). After another tough move getting onto the face, easier ground follows above. Continue up and right to one last move below the anchor.


Start 10ft right of Stepchild in an alcove.


8 Bolts. Fixed draws on the first two bolts.

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By Alex Shainman
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Fixed draws on the first 3 bolts will probably be a nice addition, with a 8" chain on the second one. Getting to the anchor when there's dirt/debris and moist lichen on the shelf is fun...
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Sep 14, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Really fun and powerful crux. Once you get onto the headwall though, moving right into the finish is rather contrived, as you are standing directly below, and with reach of the direct finish into Stepchild... traversing right and then up seems a bit weird. Either way its a fun route.
By dmPete
Sep 14, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

If you climbed Grace for the first 4/5 bolts and then finished on the direct line to Stepchild would you call the link-up Red Headed Stepchild, or Graceful Child, or...??

The grade would probably stay the same, or maybe drop a letter since that last bolt on Grace feels like a definite redpoint crux, and I imagine the end of Stepchild won't feel quite as pumpy.

Super cool moves on the lower half of Grace, for sure tho!
By Charlie Egan
Sep 30, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Placed fixed draws on the first two bolts. If they get manky, PM me and I'll replace the biners or bug someone else to do it.

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