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Gothics
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Gothics Arch 
South Face Crack 

Gothics Arch 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,197
Submitted By: Darin Perusich on Feb 16, 2009
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P1

Description 

P1 - Begins to the left of the arch and climbs to a vegetated ledge, belay from the large crack.

P2 - Climb the crack and traverse right crossing the 2 black smears and head for the right side of the headwall. There is a decent crack to setup a belay about 50ft below the head wall on a small ledge if you can't reach the headwall due to rope length.

P3 - Climb the headwall and climb the pocketed face to an vegetated area (alpine scrub) and set a belay.

P4 - Climb the pocketed face above and left of the vegetation to more alpine scrub and belay in the trees. 5.2X face climbing with zero protection and is completely run out until reaching the trees.

P5 - Climb the pocketed face right of the vegetated area to the bulge

  • *note**
The Adirondack Rock "A Rock Climbers Guide" description works right across this face from this point, we stayed to the left.
**note**

P6 - Traverse to the left side of the first bulge and over it. Climb the face to a tree belay on the left following cracks.

P7 - Traverse out right 15ft and climb the face to alpine scrub keeping it on your right. Follow the scrub and climb the face to the large boulder surrounded by alpine scrub. Fight your way through the scrub to the left side of the boulder to a belay.

Bushwhack the remaining 50-100ft to the trail between Pyramid Mt. and Gothics.


Location 

Approach: From the St. Huberts parking lot it's a 6 mile hike to the col between Pyramid Mtn. and Gothics Mtn. where there is a bushwhack descent to the base of the climb.

Descend: Follow the Range trail and summit Gothics. Continue to the col between Gothics and Armstrong and descent to St. Huberts.


Protection 

A full set of nuts, a set of hexes, and Camlots up to BD #4.



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